Sony PlayStation 2 (PS2)¶
La console la plus vendue de l'histoire (2000). Rétrocompatible PS1, à DVD, CPU Emotion Engine. Points préservation : le lecteur optique (fat) et surtout la scène softmod (FreeMcBoot) qui ouvre USB/HDD/réseau sans matériel.
Identification¶
| Champ | Valeur |
|---|---|
| Fabricant | Sony |
| Sortie | 2000 |
| Génération | 6e |
| Modèles | Fat (SCPH-30000→50000, baie d'extension) · Slim (70000+) |
| Rétrocompat | PS1 |
| Sortie vidéo | Composite, S-Video, RGB, Component (480p/1080i selon jeu) |
| Média | DVD / CD |
Architecture¶
| Bloc | Puce | Fréquence | Rôle |
|---|---|---|---|
| CPU | Emotion Engine (MIPS R5900, 128 bits) | ~294/299 MHz | + 2 unités vectorielles VU0/VU1 (géométrie), FPU |
| GPU | Graphics Synthesizer | ~147 MHz | 4 Mo eDRAM à très haute bande passante (fillrate massif) |
| Son | SPU2 | 48 voies ADPCM | |
| I/O | IOP (= le CPU R3000 de la PS1) | gère l'I/O et la rétrocompat PS1 | |
| Mémoire | 32 Mo RDRAM principale + 4 Mo eDRAM (GS) + 2 Mo son | ||
| Média | DVD-ROM (+ CD) | lecteur = point faible (voir pannes) |
La rétrocompatibilité PS1 est matérielle : l'IOP est le processeur de la PS1. Les modèles Slim (SCPH-7000x+) intègrent tout et un port réseau natif.
Modèles & révisions (fat → slim)¶
| Génération | Modèles (SCPH) | À retenir |
|---|---|---|
| Fat — early | 30000 / 3000x | baie d'extension PCMCIA + i.Link ; EE et GS séparés |
| Fat — bay | 3500x / 3900x / 5000x / 500xx | baie d'extension arrière (Network Adaptor + HDD IDE 3,5″) → OPL/HDD Loader |
| Slim | 70000 (2004) / 7500x / 7700x | très fine, réseau intégré, plus de baie ni HDD ; certaines cartes « Deckard » |
| Slim — late | 90000 | alim intégrée, dernière révision, rétrocompat PS1 en partie logicielle (Deckard) |
- La baie d'extension (fat 3000x-5000x) accueille l'adaptateur réseau + un disque IDE 3,5″ — base de OPL/HDD Loader. Les Slim n'ont plus de baie (chargement HDD via l'astuce MX4SIO/USB/SMB à la place).
- Au fil des révisions, EE + GS finissent fusionnés (réduction de coûts, moins de chaleur) — les slim tardives chauffent moins que les fat early.
Manettes & accessoires¶
- DualShock 2 : comme la DS1 mais boutons analogiques sensibles à la pression.
- Multitap (SCPH-10090) : 4 joueurs (attention : incompatible avec certaines slim tardives sans adaptateur).
- EyeToy (caméra USB), Buzz! (buzzers quiz), SingStar (micros USB), contrôleurs Guitar Hero / Rock Band, télécommande DVD, volants.
- Network Adaptor + HDD : jeu en ligne (FFXI, SOCOM) et HDD Loader (fat). Le disque 40 Go officiel était fourni pour Final Fantasy XI.
- Lecteur DVD vidéo grand public (argument de vente majeur en 2000).
- PS2 Linux Kit (officiel) : kit clavier/souris/HDD/Linux — pièce de collection.
- PSX (Japon) : PS2 + enregistreur DVR dans un boîtier tout-en-un.
Lecteur optique & « Disc Read Error »¶
Le lecteur double laser CD/DVD est le point faible des fat :
- Bloc KHS-400B (early) → KHS-400C. Le potentiomètre de gain laser et le rail/engrenage plastique s'usent → Disc Read Error (surtout DVD, dont la couche exige plus de puissance).
- Réglage/remplacement du laser possible, mais la voie moderne est de charger sans disque (FMCB + USB/HDD/réseau) → le lecteur ne sert plus.
MechaCon & compatibilité softmod¶
La puce système MechaCon gère l'alim, le lecteur et la sécurité ; sa version détermine quelles méthodes de softmod fonctionnent :
- Sur la plupart des modèles, FreeMcBoot (FMCB) s'installe sur carte mémoire.
- Sur les slim très tardives (MechaCon récent, ex. SCPH-90000 v18+), FMCB classique ne prend pas → utiliser FMCB 1.9x adapté ou l'exploit FreeDVDBoot (via un DVD piégé) / FreeHDBoot. Identifier sa version MechaCon avant de choisir.
Pannes fréquentes¶
| Symptôme | Cause probable | Piste |
|---|---|---|
| Disc Read Error (fat) | Laser / rail / gears usés | Régler/remplacer le laser, ou charger sans disque (FMCB + USB/HDD) |
| Fat : lecture DVD KO | Laser KHS-400 fatigué | Remplacer le laser |
| Slim : alim | Bloc alim interne | Diagnostic / remplacement |
| Ventilo / surchauffe (fat) | Poussière / pâte | Nettoyage |
Manuel de service d'origine ✅¶
Manuel constructeur archivé localement. Contient typiquement les schémas, le synoptique, les tensions et formes d'onde attendues, la nomenclature et les procédures de dépose — c'est la référence quand un symptôme ne colle à aucune panne connue.
Statut
Document constructeur sans licence explicite, conservé à titre de préservation (machine hors production depuis des décennies). Source : Internet Archive.
Procédures de démontage pas-à-pas ✅¶
8 procédures transcrites depuis les guides iFixit. Chacune donne la difficulté et la durée estimée — de quoi savoir dans quoi on s'engage avant d'ouvrir la machine.
| Procédure | Difficulté | Durée |
|---|---|---|
| Disassembling PlayStation 2 Top Cover | 🟢 facile | 10 to 15 minutes |
| Installing PlayStation 2 Disc Drive | 🟡 moyen | 60 to 75 minutes |
| Installing PlayStation 2 Fan | 🟡 moyen | 45 to 60 minutes |
| Installing PlayStation 2 Laser | 🟡 moyen | 20 to 30 minutes |
| Installing PlayStation 2 Power Board | 🟡 moyen | 45 to 60 minutes |
| Cleaning the lens | 🟢 facile | 15 to 20 minutes |
| PlayStation 2 Teardown | 🟡 moyen | — |
| PlayStation 2 Teardown | 🟡 moyen | — |
Disassembling PlayStation 2 Top Cover
- Flip the PlayStation 2 so that the bottom of the device is facing up. Using a metal spudger, pry the 8 flat screw covers out. Remove the following 8 screws: Four 55.4 mm Philips screws. Four 18 mm Phillips screws.
- Peel the warranty sticker next to the main power switch from the case.
Installing PlayStation 2 Disc Drive
- Underneath where the power supply once was is a transparent piece of plastic. This is the heat shield, and it can now be removed. It can be a bit stubborn, so it may take a little finessing to get it free.
- Now with the heat shield out of the way, you can see there are quite a few screws holding the rest in place. Remove the following screws securing the metal chassis to the logic board: Seven 5.8 mm Phillips silver screws. Two 7.4 mm Phillips gold screws.
- Unclip flaps, one on one side and two on the other, holding the disc drive together. The first two pictures display where the three flaps are. This is very tricky so take your time. Carefully begin to lift out the disc drive. Beware, there are ribbon cables still attached.
- Unclip flaps, one on one side and two on the other, holding the disc drive together. <strong>The first two pictures display where the three flaps are.</strong> This is very tricky so take your time. Carefully begin to lift out the disc drive. Beware, there are ribbon cables still attached.
Installing PlayStation 2 Fan
- Underneath where the power supply once was is a transparent piece of plastic. This is the heat shield, and it can now be removed. It can be a bit stubborn, so it may take a little finessing to get it free.
- We can now remove the fan and main power switch assembly. Remove the small white piece of tape that holds the wire connected to the fan. Unplug the wire from the logic board. The fan and switch are now free from the rest of the PS2. Simply remove it by pulling it out the bottom.
- The fan simply slides out of the top along its track.
Installing PlayStation 2 Laser
- Remove the four 6.4 mm Phillips screws which hold the lid of the disc drive on. Remove the lid.
Installing PlayStation 2 Power Board
- Remove the two 6.4 mm Phillips black screws holding the disc drive in place. Remove the whole disc drive by carefully tilting the lid and sliding out.
- Remove two 14.6 mm Phillips head gold screws to remove controller port.
- Gently lift out the controller port. Disconnect the ribbon cable from the controller port.
- Remove two 14.6 mm Phillips gold screws holding the fan.
- If you utilize your expansion bay for its intended purpose, make sure you remove the component now. Remove the cover for the expansion bay. Pull the innards out and away from the bottom cover. Now that all of that bulky plastic is out of the way, we can get to the fun stuff - electronics! Let's begin by removing the four 7.6 mm Phillips head gold screws holding on the power supply board.
- If you utilize your expansion bay for its intended purpose, make sure you remove the component now. Remove the cover for the expansion bay. Pull the <em>innards</em> out and away from the bottom cover. Now that all of that bulky plastic is out of the way, we can get to the fun stuff - electronics! Let's begin by removing the four 7.6 mm Phillips head gold screws holding on the power supply board.
Cleaning the lens
- Clean the lens with a Q-tip dampened with rubbing alcohol.
PlayStation 2 Teardown
- Here we have the system console fully assembled. The USB Ports. The S400 ports, that nobody uses. Here we have the DVD Drive The reset button The eject button
- This are the only tools that we need. 4 screwdrivers and a tweezer. In the next photo, the console, the joystick, the wires and a memory card.
- In the Back, in this case we have a Ethernet adapter, to play online and to use with a Hdd. And the cooler, The power switch The AC in. The Av out And the digital output (optical)
- Lets start the teardown. At first we use a flathead screwdriver to remove the ethernet adapter. Remove these 2 screws And is quite simple to pull.
- This is the expansion bay, where we put the Hdd.
- Turn the console upside down. Using a small flathead screwdriver, remove the screw protections. In this model we have 8 of them.
- Under the protection, suprise! a screw! You'll have to remove the eight. Yes, hard work!
- Put the console in the normal horizontal position, and pull the top cover from back to front. Look the images!
- This model have a flat cable to the reset and eject button. Take extreme caution to not destroy it. Remove the button structure just pulling wiht a small flat screwdriver.
- The button structure comes out of the case. It have some tape to prevent a new destruction. Yes, I already destroyed this flat cable.
- Remove this two screws to deatach the controller port.
- Here we remove the screws from the cooler and the main power switch
- Pull the cooler up, but tkae care to not destroy de wire. Pull up the fan grid.
- The power cable go to inside the case. Is better let to remove in a further step. The fan wire also go to inside the case. Take extreme care to not destroy it.
- Lets turn the console upside down again, with caution because the pieces are locked, and just in the next step we can remove them.
- Lets remove the bottom case.
- This is the power source board. remove the 4 screws where I marked in blue.
- Looking from the back, pull up the board, releasing from the pins of the main board. Finally you can remove the power switch. And this is the power source board.
- Now we remove the expansion bay grid. And now is the time to remove the fan wire from the main board, using a precision tweezer. But.. I can't, it simply stucks. I already remove this ealier, but now is harder, I will try later, in the end of the teardown.
- Remove the isolation cover from the metal case. Remove the small screws using a thin crosshead screwdriver. And release the metal case from the DVD player, as indicated, using a small flat screwdriver
- Now you can remove the metal case, and find the main board. Look the flat cables. Now is the time to remove them. Be gentle.
- There is 2 more and the DVD player is free.
- Now you can turn upside down again, and remove the metal protection. This is the other side of the main board.
- Well, the try to remove the cooler wire was a total failure. The plug is made to deatach, but it is old, it turned into one piece, and broke the soldering. Well, I'll find a way to fix it. I always do =)
- This is the end of the teardown. From top, from the left: Ethernet adapter, Ps2 case, Hdd, Cooling fan, Cooler grid, bottom metal cover protection, screws protectors, screws, Controller board, Power swtich, Power source board, Plastic cover to isolate the power source board, top metal cover, DVD Drive, Expansion Bay cover, main board, reset/eject structure.
PlayStation 2 Teardown
- Flip the Playstation 2 (PS2) so that the bottom of the device is facing up. Using a metal splunger pry the 8 flat screw covers out. Remove the following 8 screws: Four 55.4mm Philips head screws. Four 18mm Phillips head screws.
- Peel away the sticker that says "Warranty void if this seal on the Playstation2 console is removed." It is right next to the main power switch. Please note removing this sticker will void your warranty but if it is the old fatty, it propably isnt anyway
- Flip the PS2 back over and remove the top cover, prying the half closer to the power switch first and rocking the whole thing towards the front. Carefully remove the cord that attaches the two halves by unclipping the power cord assembly from the case in the lid.
- Remove the four 6.4mm Phillips head screws which hold the lid of the disc drive on. Remove the lid.
- Remove the two 6.4mm #00 Phillips head black screws holding the disc drive in place. Remove the whole disc drive by carefully tilting the lid and sliding out.
- Remove two 14.6mm Phillips head gold screws to remove controller port.
- Gently lift out the controller port. Remove the ribbon cable.
- Remove two 14.6mm Phillips head gold screws holding the fan.
- Remove the cover for the Expansion Bay. If you utilize your expansion bay for its intended purpose, make sure you remove the component now. Pull the inards out and away from the bottom cover. Now that all of that bulky plastic is out of the way, we can get to the fun stuff - electronics! Let's begin by removing the four 7.6mm Phillips head gold screws holding on the power supply board.
- With the screws out of the way, the metal case that houses the expansion bay will lift off with ease. There is one cable that is clipped onto the power board. It is located next to the main power switch. Carefully begin lifting the power board. You can now see the clip holding the power board in place. Unsnap the clip, and the board is free from the unit.
- Underneath where the power supply once was is a transparent piece of plastic. This is the heat shield, and it can now be removed. It can be a bit stubborn, so it may take a little finessing to get it free.
- Now with the heat shield out of the way, you can see there are quite a few screws holding the rest in place. First, remove the seven 5.8mm Phillips head silver screws. Next, take out the two 7.4mm Phillips head gold screws.
- We can now remove the fan and main power switch assembly. Remove the small white piece of tape that holds the wire connected to the fan. Unplug the wire from the logic board. The fan and switch are now free from the rest of the PS2. Simply remove it by pulling it out the bottom.
- Unclip flaps, one on one side and two on the other, holding the disc drive together. The first two pictures display where the three flaps are. This is very tricky so take your time. Carefully begin to lift out the disc drive. Beware, there are ribbon cables still attached.
- There are four ribbon cables attached to the disc drive. Be careful not to rip any of them! Remove the three blue ribbon cables and one little orange cable by gently pulling on the blue plastic strips. Carefully remove the orange ribbon cable from the laser by gently pulling on the white plastic strip.
- After the disc drive has been completely removed flip it over. Gently lift off the metal cooling fins. All that remains in view should be the logic board.
Source et licence
Guides iFixit, sous licence Creative Commons BY-NC-SA 3.0 — réutilisation autorisée avec attribution, usage non commercial et partage à l'identique. C'est, de toute la documentation rassemblée dans ce wiki, la seule sous licence explicite : les manuels constructeur, eux, n'en ont aucune. Les photos d'étapes accompagnant ces guides sont conservées dans l'archive d'origine (manuels/).
Mods populaires — quoi acheter, où, procédures¶
La PS2 se modde surtout en LOGICIEL (0 soudure)
La quasi-totalité passe par du softmod — pas de puce à souder sur les modèles récents. Procédures d'après ConsoleMods (CC-BY-SA). Soudure : 🟢 aucune · 🟡 · 🟠 · 🔴.
Débloquer la console — softmod (le cœur)¶
- Mechapwn : patche le MECHACON (la puce de contrôle) → active FMCB sur (presque) tous les modèles, slim comprises, et rend la console region-free / FreeDVDBoot. 0 soudure 🟢 (se fait par un disque/exploit). La clé pour les slim où l'ancien FMCB ne prenait pas.
- FreeMcBoot (FMCB) : exploit sur carte mémoire → menu homebrew au boot. FreeHDBoot (FHDB) = même chose depuis le HDD ; FreeDVDBoot = depuis un DVD gravé (sans carte pré-faite). → Softmods.
Lancer ses jeux — Open PS2 Loader (OPL) + stockage¶
- OPL lance les jeux depuis : USB, HDD interne (fat, baie d'extension), réseau (SMB), ou carte SD via MX4SIO / SD2PSX (SD dans le port memory card). ESR Launcher pour les DVD backups patchés. → fiche MX4SIO / OPL.
- HDD : sur fat, adaptateur SATA (ATA Express / caddy SATA) dans la baie ; sur slim, privilégier MX4SIO / USB / réseau.
Vidéo¶
- Component / RGB natif (câble Sony ou péritel selon jeu — beaucoup de jeux PS2 sont 480p/component). ⚠️ si écran noir en component : réinitialiser le réglage Component Video Out (guide ConsoleMods). HDMI : via un convertisseur component→HDMI ou un Retro GEM.
Fiabilité¶
- Fan Replacement (ventilo bruyant/faible), remplacement du laser (lecteur qui n'accroche plus), Replacing Capacitors (rare, selon état). Modchip = obsolète (le softmod fait tout).
Émulation¶
- PCSX2 (mûre, rendu HD/widescreen, packs de textures).
Photos / assets¶
(À ajouter : fat vs slim, lecteur, baie HDD, sorties AV.)
Réparation avancée
Laser + réglage « Disc Detect »/tilt (fat) = panne n°1 ; alternative ODE ; recap alim. Méthodes : ODE (lecteur optique) · Recap · Diagnostic PCB.
Sources & attribution¶
- Wikipédia — PlayStation 2 — CC-BY-SA — https://fr.wikipedia.org/wiki/PlayStation_2
- ConsoleMods — PS2 (FMCB, ODE) — à référencer — https://consolemods.org/wiki/PlayStation_2
Image :
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ps2-board.jpg— Sillent DX, CC BY 3.0 — https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:PlayStation_2_slim's_motherboard_(top).png
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Relecture & corrections
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