Sony PlayStation (PS1)¶
Console 32 bits de Sony (1994), à CD-ROM, qui a fait basculer le jeu vidéo vers le grand public. RGB natif superbe. Points préservation : le lecteur CD (laser qui s'use, le classique « console à l'envers ») et les ODE modernes (PSIO, xStation).
Identification¶
| Champ | Valeur |
|---|---|
| Fabricant | Sony |
| Sortie | 1994 (JP), 1995 (export) |
| Génération | 5e (32 bits) |
| Révisions | SCPH-1000 → 9000 · PSone (SCPH-100) |
| Sortie vidéo native | Composite, S-Video, RGB |
| Région / lockout | JP / US / EU |
| Média | CD-ROM |
Architecture¶
| Bloc | Puce | Fréquence | Rôle |
|---|---|---|---|
| CPU | MIPS R3000A (LSI CoreWare) | ~33,87 MHz | + GTE (Geometry Transform Engine, coproc. 3D) + MDEC (décodeur vidéo) |
| GPU | custom Sony | rastériseur 2D/3D, pas de correction de perspective (d'où les textures « qui ondulent ») ni de Z-buffer | |
| Son | SPU | 24 voies ADPCM + réverbération | |
| Mémoire | 2 Mo principale + 1 Mo VRAM + 512 Ko son | ||
| Média | CD-ROM 2× | + carte mémoire (sauvegardes) |
La 3D en nombres entiers (pas de virgule flottante par pixel) explique le tremblement des polygones (« vertex jitter »), signature visuelle de la PS1. L'absence de correction de perspective fait « onduler » les textures — deux défauts que l'émulation moderne (PGXP) sait corriger.
Manettes & périphériques¶
- Évolution du pad : digital d'origine → Dual Analog (SCPH-1150) → DualShock (2 sticks analogiques + vibration), qui devient le standard.
- Multitap (SCPH-1070) : 4 à 8 joueurs.
- GunCon / G-Con (Namco, light gun CRT), neGcon (manette qui se tord, Ridge Racer), Jogcon (R4), volant, souris.
- PocketStation (Japon) : carte mémoire avec écran LCD = mini-console (interagit avec certains jeux).
- Carte mémoire 128 Ko (15 blocs) ; alternative moderne MemCard PRO.
- Link cable (SIO) : relier 2 consoles + 2 TV (Wipeout, Doom).
Révisions de carte (PU-7 → PU-23)¶
La PS1 « fat » a de nombreuses révisions de carte mère (repère PU-xx), au fil d'une réduction de coûts continue :
| Carte | Modèles (SCPH) | À retenir |
|---|---|---|
| PU-7 | SCPH-1000 (+ 1002 EU) | lancement ; sortie audio RCA dédiée + S-Video, ports parallèle & série ; DAC audio réputé (recherché) |
| PU-8 | SCPH-100x / 300x / 500x | cost-reduction ; AV multi-out |
| PU-18 | SCPH-5500 → 5503 | révision très répandue |
| PU-20 | SCPH-5903 (Video CD) & co. | variante |
| PU-22 | SCPH-7500 | port parallèle retiré |
| PU-23 | SCPH-9000 | dernière « fat » ; port série retiré sur les tardives |
| PM-41 | PSone (SCPH-100) | redesign compact 2000 |
Mappings SCPH-5500-5503 = PU-18, SCPH-7500 = PU-22, SCPH-9000 = PU-23 confirmés par les schémas Console5. Les cartes early (PU-7/8) sont prisées pour leur A/V et leurs ports d'extension ; les tardives sont plus fiables mécaniquement mais dépouillées. La PSone (PM-41) est compacte, sans port parallèle/série, alimentée par un bloc externe.
Le bloc laser (KSM-440) & le « à l'envers »¶
Le lecteur utilise un bloc optique de la famille KSM-440 (variantes KSM-440AAM/ADM/BAM selon révision). Deux usures classiques :
- Laser affaibli : la diode perd en puissance → sauts, refus de lecture. Un potentiomètre sur le bloc règle le courant laser (dernier recours seulement).
- Rail / engrenage plastique : le chariot force → lecture aléatoire.
Pourquoi la console « lit à l'envers »
L'astuce bien connue (retourner/incliner la console pour lire) marche parce que changer l'orientation compense un laser faible / un rail usé (gravité sur le chariot ou la lentille). C'est un symptôme d'usure : la vraie réparation est le réglage/remplacement du laser — ou un ODE qui supprime le lecteur.
Recap (secondaire)¶
Contrairement au Duo NEC ou à la Game Gear, la PS1 n'est pas une console « à recap » critique. Un recap n'aide qu'en cas de son/vidéo dégradés ou d'alim capricieuse. Les listes par repère existent par révision PU (et par module d'alim 100-120 V / 220-240 V) chez Console5 — voir sources.
Pannes fréquentes¶
| Symptôme | Cause probable | Piste |
|---|---|---|
| Ne lit plus / ne lit qu'à l'envers | Laser / rail / gears usés | Régler le laser, remplacer le bloc optique, ou ODE |
| Sauts de lecture | Laser faible | Régler le potard laser ; ODE |
| Pas d'image | Alim, GPU, contacts | Diagnostic |
| Pile carte mémoire | (sauvegardes sur carte externe) | Remplacer la carte |
Manuel de service d'origine ✅¶
Manuel constructeur archivé localement. Contient typiquement les schémas, le synoptique, les tensions et formes d'onde attendues, la nomenclature et les procédures de dépose — c'est la référence quand un symptôme ne colle à aucune panne connue.
- PS one SCPH-102 — manuel de service (Sony) — PDF
Statut
Document constructeur sans licence explicite, conservé à titre de préservation (machine hors production depuis des décennies) — même position que pour les manuels de bornes et d'arcade déjà archivés ici. Source : Internet Archive.
Procédures de démontage pas-à-pas ✅¶
18 procédures transcrites depuis les guides iFixit, avec leur difficulté et leur durée estimée.
| Procédure | Difficulté | Durée |
|---|---|---|
| (TC) PlayStation Teardown | 🟡 moyen | No estimate |
| Opening Procedure | 🟢 facile | No estimate |
| Opening Procedure | 🟢 facile | No estimate |
| PlayStation Case Disassembly | 🟢 facile | 5 - 10 minutes |
| PlayStation SCPH-5501 Motor Speed Adjustment (KSM-440ADM/AEM+) | 🟠 difficile | 1 - 3 hours |
| Sony PlayStation SCPH-9002 Teardown | 🟡 moyen | No estimate |
| Sony PlayStation Teardown | 🟡 moyen | No estimate |
| PlayStation Controller Port Replacement | 🟢 facile | 5 - 10 minutes |
| PlayStation Controller Ports Replacement | 🟡 moyen | 10 - 20 minutes |
| PlayStation scph-1001 Eye replacement | 🟡 moyen | No estimate |
| PlayStation Laser from a SCPH-7501 or SCPH-9001 Replacement | 🟡 moyen | No estimate |
| PlayStation Logic Board Replacement | 🟡 moyen | 20 - 30 minutes |
| PlayStation Motherboard Replacement | 🟡 moyen | 20 - 30 minutes |
| PlayStation Optical Drive Replacement | 🟡 moyen | 10 - 20 minutes |
| PlayStation Optical Drive Replacement | 🟢 facile | 5 - 10 minutes |
| PlayStation Optical Drive Replacement from a SCPH-7501 or SCPH-9001 | 🟡 moyen | No estimate |
| PlayStation Power Supply Replacement | 🟡 moyen | 10 - 15 minutes |
| PlayStation Power Supply Replacement | 🟢 facile | 5 minutes |
(TC) PlayStation Teardown
- Flip the unit upside down to access the six screws on the bottom. Remove the six screws indicated with a Phillips-head screwdriver. All the screws are of the same length.
- Turn the unit back over, and pull the top half up and away from the device.
- Unplug the laser assembly's power cable and ribbon cable from the main board. Remove the two screws on the memory card/controller port, disconnect the ribbon cable, and lift it out of the case.
- To remove the power supply, disconnect the cable and remove the two screws, then lift it out of the case.
- Remove the 3 screws from the shield.
- Remove the 5 Phillips screws. You can now lift the main board out of the case.
- Lift the RF shield out of the case.
- Reinstall the RF shield by dropping it in and lining up the slots and tabs.
- Replace the main board. Only install the screws indicated in red.
- Replace the top shield, and secure with the 3 screws indicated. Reinstall the memory card / controller module. Connect the ribbon cable and replace the 2 screws.
- Align the optical drive assembly with the three pegs. Reconnect the power and data cables for the optical drive.
- Slide the cover on the system in the same way you took it off and replace the black screws indicated.
- Plug in the console and turn it on. Thanks for looking at my teardown!
Opening Procedure
Prerequisite-only guide to open a PlayStation...
- Before you begin, make sure the console is turned off and unplugged. Turn the console upside down and remove the five 15.8 mm-long Phillips #1 screws.
- While holding the top and bottom halves of the console together, flip the console back over. Lift the top cover straight up to remove it.
Opening Procedure
Prerequisite-only guide to open a PlayStation...
- Turn the console upside down and remove the five 15.8 mm-long Phillips #1 screws.
- Flip the console back over (making sure to hold the top and bottom halves together) and lift up on the top cover to remove it.
PlayStation Case Disassembly
This will guide you through the disassembly of...
- Remove the parallel port cover on the back of the PlayStation.
- Flip over the PlayStation and remove the six screws from the bottom.
- Turn the PlayStation upright. Remove the cover by lifting it up.
PlayStation SCPH-5501 Motor Speed Adjustment (KSM-440ADM/AEM+)
Is your PlayStation SCPH-550x having trouble...
- Due to the EET missing several components present in the Pro Tech Go and only being $20 cheaper, EET has been removed|new_window=true. The EET will work for this guide as-is, but if you are shopping for a new toolkit to complete this guide, the Tech Go (new or refurbished, refurbished is ~$32 cheaper)|new_window=true, or Pro Tech ($79 new/~$59.95 refurb) is the current recommended toolkit for this guide. If you are interested in a refurbished kit stock levels change frequently but can be found .
- Before starting, make sure you have a die cast laser. Plastic lasers are not repairable. If your laser is plastic: You must replace the laser due to uneven wear. If you have a Die cast laser, this fix may improve the read rate. However, this is an age based failure. Note: In some cases, the laser resistance will need to be adjusted.
- EET owners: Your kit has this bit. No purchase needed. Remove the *6 screws from the bottom of the PlayStation. Use a Phillips #2* screwdriver. Lift the top cover off.
- Disconnect the laser from the system.
- EET owners: Your kit has this bit. No purchase needed. With the laser removed from the system, remove the 2 *Phillips PH1 screws. Check if the laser is plastic. If the laser is plastic, it cannot be repaired and must be replaced. The example shown can be adjusted.*
- EET owners: Your kit has this bit. No purchase needed. *Only adjust this enough to reliably read games and music CDs again. If the speed is too slow, the laser may physically "burn" your games, albeit very unlikely unless you adjust the laser trimpot on the mainboard. Consider anything less then a 80-90% read rate a failure. These are hard to recover reliably. Before starting, mark the original adjustment point and write down the factory setting as tested. It will be difficult to take it back to stock without this information. Adjust the trimpot incrementally using a Phillips PH1 or other compatible bit.* Do this until the laser is reading games more consistently.
- If possible, test on a known good system first. Improving the read percentage: If you are not happy with the results, keep adjusting the motor. Repeat until you are happy with the passing read rate, or the motor doesn't spin. If you see the Insert PlayStation CD-ROM screen, the motor is running slow. Adjust the speed to be faster. Partially reassemble the system and test it. If it is sufficient, reassemble the system. To test the read percentage, get a few known good games and see which ones load. A minimum of 5 test games is recommended. Only adjust the laser again after each full test is done. If the game loads, test play the system for a few minutes to check the stability. Important: Some early revisions have FMV issues - THIS IS EXPECTED.
- Control system results
- Repaired SCPH-5501 results
Sony PlayStation SCPH-9002 Teardown
I have a PlayStation 1, and i have decided to...
- Here's the PS1. Turn the PS1 over and remove the six screws. Note: part number +BV 3X14
- Remove the top cover. It's very easy.
- Disconnect both CD-ROM connectors. CD connector one and the socket it connects to. CD connector two and the socket it connects to. Note: part number DEVICE OPTICAL KSM-440AEM
- Remove the CD-ROM reader. You should be able to pull it out gently, although you may have to wiggle it around a bit to loosen the rubber holders.
- Detach both cables. They go to the power supply and to the memory cards and controller connectors.
- Remove the four screws and the metal cover.
- Now you have the motherboard! And the power supply. Remove the four screws from the motherboard and the power supply.
- Once the screws are removed, remove the power supply.
- Remove the motherboard, and both of the screws from the memory card/ controller connection mechanism.
- Now, you have all your PlayStation 1 parts! Main Board Lower Casing EMI Shield Power Supply Disk Reader Memory Card/ Controller Mechanism
Sony PlayStation Teardown
Originally developed as part of a joint venture...
- You youngsters may not remember, but the PlayStation was only available in Japan during its first year on the market. Here in America, we awaited its arrival with bated breath. Let's recall what we were waiting for: MIPS R3000 33.9 MHz, 32-bit RISC CPU 32-bit GPU 2 MB RAM 1 MB VRAM 16-bit 24-channel PCM stereo sound 2x CD-ROM Drive Fun fact: this PlayStation is commonly referred to as the "PSX" because "PlayStation X" was its codename during development. The name stuck even after the X was officially dropped. Interestingly enough, Sony later released a DVR/PS2 combo in Japan called the , but you probably never heard of it.
- From several feet away, our fancy Japanese model (on the right) looks identical to the original North American unit. But upon closer inspection, our peepers notice a few slight differences: The inside of the CD trays are nearly identical, save for some small differences in the plastic molding. The most noticeable cosmetic difference is the PlayStation logos on the lids. The Japanese model sports a bit of green instead of the PlayStation Blue we're used to seeing, as well as a brownish color in the negative space of the logo. What does all this mean? We'll have to run some benchmarks, but we're guessing these rare colors add about 30 horsepower to your car in Turismo|new_window=true. Or, if you're a skater, 15% gnarlier tricks in Hawk's Pro Skater|new_window=true.
- Turning the console to its backside reveals a plethora of ports. A MacBook Pro|new_window=true, this is not. Our Japanese is a bit rough, but if we had to guess, these labels are probably trying to tell us something about the ports.
- Oh yeah, we've got an English version, too! Let's decrypt these labels and take a closer look at all the connection options we have: Parallel I/O: Funnily enough, Sony never released an official product that took advantage of the parallel port, but many third-parties made cheat devices for it. Serial I/O: This port is used to link two PlayStations together for multiplayer on separate TVs, but only certain games supported it. RCA Out: These ports provided a non-proprietary method for connecting the PlayStation to the TV. RFU DC Out: Since many older TVs didn't have RCA ports, this port was used to plug in an modulator|new_window=true, which would convert the video and audio to an RF signal in order to communicate with the TV. S-Video Out: This elusive port only appeared on the original SCPH-1000 Japanese model. Depending on the TV, many argue the dedicated S-Video port provides a better image quality than the other output options. AV Multi Out: This was Sony's proprietary connector for video and audio output. The development of RCA, S-Video, and RF cables for this port phased out all of the other outputs over the years. AC In: The PlayStation uses a standard C7/C8 cable and connector, with the North American model using a polarized version. Sony has used this AC connector on all of its PlayStations thus far.
- Stacked up against its contemporary nostalgia machine, the PlayStation Classic, our original PlayStation is a veritable giant. The PSC does an honorable job of culling all the memorable bits of its namesake's design and cramming them into a cute little gray box. We appreciate the attention to detail—everything from the vents along the side of the console to the "memory card" slots seem to be present and accounted for. One omission we simply cannot overlook, however, is the un-open-able CD lid. Why, Sony, would you taunt us with a real, push-able Open button if it does not, in fact, open anything? Perhaps that's why sales took off|new_window=true. What's that? Oh, right ... This is a teardown! Let's get back to it.
- Alright, how do we get inside this thing? Maybe it has something to do with these arrows ... Turns out each screw holding the two halves of the console together is marked with a helpful little arrow! After a year of and otherwise devices, these helpful pointers are a wonderful breath of fresh air. Well, actually the air is pretty dusty in here—this thing is old. But you get the point. We won't need every bit (spoiler alert: we only need one) for this trip down ~~Pass|new_window=true~~ memory lane, but we're still glad we brought our trusty driver kit along for the ride.
- We lift the lid off of this curious console, secretly hoping that will come flying out for us to collect|new_window=true. Unfortunately we are left empty-handed in the gems department, but there is some pretty cool stuff in here. No dragons, though. First things first, let's carefully dispose of this power supply before we get zapped. This internal power supply is an absolute unit, taking up 20% of the console's footprint|new_window=true. But despite the PlayStation's relatively small size (compared to modern consoles, at least), Sony was able to cram this thing in here seemingly without breaking a sweat. Speaking of breaking a sweat—90's silicon didn't run as hot as today's hardware does, but it's still impressive to see an internal power supply, a whole optical drive assembly, and everything on the main board (more on that later), all running in a fanless configuration.
- Next up, the controller ports and memory card slots come out as one assembly. These slots won't take your fancy 512 GB micro SD cards, but the 1 MB PlayStation memory cards were split into 15 separate memory blocks, so you could save your progress for multiple games on one card. Definitely beats memorizing or hoping the battery|new_window=true in your game cartridge doesn't kick the bucket. The CD laser and motor assembly rests on three pegs secured in place by rubber grommets. This allows the entire mechanism to move around slightly and absorb vibrations from the spinning disc. Some argue that early models with RCA jacks superb audio quality when playing music CDs|new_window=true, but it's a subject that's been debated for as long as the console has been around. In case your mother never taught you: TOUCH THE LENS|new_window=true.
- With nowhere left to turn, we lift up the giant metal shield hiding the motherboard to reveal the main act. Like Croft|new_window=true, we carefully lift this dusty relic from its home, hoping we haven't tripped some sort of booby trap. To our relief, it appears we haven't sprung any traps—the coast is clear; now let's assess this treasure we've found.
- All it takes is one look to be sure we've struck gold here—this thing has more chips than bags of Tostitos Scoops|new_window=true… Sony CXD8530BQ CPU (designed by MIPS) Sony CXD8514Q GPU (designed by Toshiba) Samsung KM48V514BJ-6 (4 x 512 KB) DRAM Sony M534032C-02 ROM Samsung KM4216V256G-60 (2 x 512 KB) VRAM Sony CXD2922Q SPU Sony CXD1199BQ CD decoder
- We couldn't get out all the chips in one single breath, so here are a few more: Sony CXD2516Q CD digital signal processor Samsung KM416V256ALLT-8 audio RAM Sony CXD2923AR digital-to-analog converter Sony CXA1645M video encoder
- Hol' up. Flipping the motherboard over reveals a few more chips… Sony E35D 424660 185 BRSAC9505A CD controller Hitachi HM62W256LFP-7T CMOS SRAM Rohm BA6398FP 4-channel BTL driver Sony A1782BR RF signal processing servo amplifier Toshiba TA78M05F Power Supply IC It's amazing how far gaming consoles have come in 25 years. The 4|new_window=true has nearly 50x the processing power and 4,000x more RAM than this ancient fossil—and the Pro|new_window=true runs laps around the PS4. And already got a feeling|new_window=true 2020's PS5 will be even better.
- And that's it! There's not much inside this original PlayStation, which is a testament to Sony's design and engineering chops—or maybe technology was just simpler back then... Probably a bit of both. It's hard to remember a time when Sony wasn't a game console maker, and it's easy to see why: they nailed a lot of the essentials on their first try. That, plus a steady stream of award-winning games has led to PlayStation's rise to the top of the list|new_window=true multiple times over the course of the last couple decades. The original PlayStation is currently #5 on that list, even though it remains #1 in many of our hearts. And with that, it's time to end this special 25th anniversary teardown from the past. If you need us, we'll be with a certain crime fighter|new_window=true. First, though, let's give this thing a repairability score.
- The Sony PlayStation (SCPH-1000) earns an 8 out of 10 on our repairability scale (10 is easiest to repair): The console is made up of few components, and each one is straightforward to remove and replace. Only a Phillips screwdriver and a spudger are needed for complete disassembly. The optical drive is one of the easiest components to remove—a good sign knowing these were prone to fail on older models. Because the PlayStation has been around the block several times, repair and service information is available|new_window=true, although likely much to Sony's chagrin. All of the I/O ports on the back of the console are soldered to the motherboard.
PlayStation Controller Port Replacement
This will guide you through the replacement of...
- Remove the two screws securing the controller port to the case.
- Gently disconnect the ribbon cable from the logic board. This is done by pulling on the blue area of the cable near the connector.
- Remove and replace the controller port.
PlayStation Controller Ports Replacement
If your PlayStation is no longer registering...
- Before you begin, make sure the console is turned off and unplugged. Turn the console upside down and remove the five 15.8 mm-long Phillips #1 screws.
- While holding the top and bottom halves of the console together, flip the console back over. Lift the top cover straight up to remove it.
- Remove five Phillips #1 screws securing the metal shield to the controller ports: Two 14 mm screws Three 8 mm screws
- Lift the metal shield straight up to remove it.
- Pull the controller port's ribbon cable straight up and out of its socket on the motherboard to disconnect it.
- Lift the controller ports straight up and out of the bottom case.
PlayStation scph-1001 Eye replacement
- This is your PlayStation before you do this teardown.
- Now take the 5 black screws out of the case.
- Now flip the system back over to its top. 'Be sure not to drop the top when you pick it up.
- Pick up on the top case after you have flipped it over. This will have a little resistance but this should not break anything if you have all of the five screws out of the under case.
- Then undo the piece holding in the ribbon cable. When you do this grab the side of the black piece holding it in place and pick it up slowly
- Then undo the power cable and the eye Cable these should just lift right off.
- Now just pick up on the eye and set it off to the side the reassembly
PlayStation Laser from a SCPH-7501 or SCPH-9001 Replacement
This will repair your SCPH-5501 without buying...
- Remove the parallel port cover on the back of the PlayStation. Flip over the PlayStation and remove the six screws from the bottom. Turn the PlayStation upright. Remove the cover by lifting it up.
- Carefully disconnect the gold-colored ribbon cable from it's connector. To avoid damaging the cable, pull it by the white, reinforced tab.
- Disconnect the second cable by pulling up on the plastic connector at the end. Remove the 2 screws and take the black bottom piece of the old Optical drive. Take the new Optical drive from either a SCPH-7501 or an SCPH-9001. Gently pull on the orange ribbon, but not too much or you could rip it.
- Take the bottom piece you took out and place it on the new Optical drive and screw it on the new drive.
- Here is what your work should look like. Put it back together, plug it in, turn it on and test it to see if it works.
PlayStation Logic Board Replacement
This will guide you through the process of...
- Remove the four screws from the logic board's metal cover.
- Detach power supply connector from logic board by pulling on the plastic tab.
- Detach white ribbon cable from logic board by gently lifting on it.
- With one hand, hold the main board’s protective metal cover. With your other hand, wedge the spudger in between the right side of the protective cover and the thin metal clamps that surround it. With the spudger in place, gently lift the upper portion of the metal cover. The cover should detach from the right side.
- Using the same process from the previous step, wedge the spudger between the clamps and metal cover on the bottom side (as shown in the picture). With your other hand, pull up on the top right corner of the metal cover to lift it off.
- Remove the last four screws from the logic board.
- Lift the logic board out of the PlayStation and replace with a new logic board.
PlayStation Motherboard Replacement
If your PlayStation is displaying faulty video,...
- Before you begin, make sure the console is turned off and unplugged. Turn the console upside down and remove the five 15.8 mm-long Phillips #1 screws.
- While holding the top and bottom halves of the console together, flip the console back over. Lift the top cover straight up to remove it.
- Remove five Phillips #1 screws securing the metal shield to the controller ports: Two 14 mm screws Three 8 mm screws
- Lift the metal shield straight up to remove it.
- Pull the controller port's ribbon cable straight up and out of its socket on the motherboard to disconnect it.
- Lift the controller ports straight up and out of the bottom case.
- Pull the optical drive power cable straight up and out of its socket on the motherboard to disconnect it.
- Use the flat end of a spudger to lift up and unlock one side of the data cable's connector on the motherboard. Repeat this step on the other side of the connector. You'll hear a faint click noise when unlocking the connector. Make sure not to apply too much pressure when lifting up on the connector with the spudger, or else damage may result. Gently pull the optical drive data cable straight up and out of its socket on the motherboard to disconnect it.
- Lift the optical drive straight up to remove it.
- Pull the power supply cable straight up and out of its socket on the motherboard to disconnect it.
- Remove the five 14 mm-long Phillips #1 screws from the motherboard's metal shield.
- From the left side, lift up the metal shield and rotate it about its right edge, opening it like a book. There may be strips of tape holding the right side of the metal shield to the case, necessitating this kind of removal procedure. If there isn't tape, you can simply lift the shield straight up to remove it.
- Remove the three 14 mm-long Phillips #1 screws securing the motherboard to the bottom case.
- Lift the motherboard out of the bottom case.
PlayStation Optical Drive Replacement
If your PlayStation is having trouble reading...
- Before you begin, make sure the console is turned off and unplugged. Turn the console upside down and remove the five 15.8 mm-long Phillips #1 screws.
- While holding the top and bottom halves of the console together, flip the console back over. Lift the top cover straight up to remove it.
- Pull the optical drive power cable straight up and out of its socket on the motherboard to disconnect it.
- Use the flat end of a spudger to lift up and unlock one side of the data cable's connector on the motherboard. Repeat this step on the other side of the connector. You'll hear a faint click noise when unlocking the connector. Make sure not to apply too much pressure when lifting up on the connector with the spudger, or else damage may result. Gently pull the optical drive data cable straight up and out of its socket on the motherboard to disconnect it.
- Lift the optical drive straight up to remove it.
PlayStation Optical Drive Replacement
This will guide you through the process of...
- Carefully disconnect the gold-colored ribbon cable from it's connector. To avoid damaging the cable, pull it by the white, reinforced tab.
- Disconnect the second cable by pulling up on the plastic connector at the end.
- Lift the optical drive off of the PlayStation.
PlayStation Optical Drive Replacement from a SCPH-7501 or SCPH-9001
- Remove the parallel port cover on the back of the PlayStation
- Flip over the PlayStation and remove the six screws from the bottom.
- Turn the PlayStation upright. Remove the cover by lifting it up.
- Carefully disconnect the gold-colored ribbon cable from it's connector. To avoid damaging the cable, pull it by the white, reinforced tab.
- Disconnect the second cable by pulling up on the plastic connector at the end.
- Lift the optical drive off of the PlayStation.
- Remove the two screws and take off the bottom piece for your new Optical drive from the old one.
- Take the new lens either from a SCPH-7501 or SCPH-9001. To avoid damaging the cable, Gently lift on this gold-colored cable that has a pot screw on it and lift it, but not too much.
- Take the bottom piece and screw the two screws on the new Optical Drive.
- Plug the cables back in. Your work should look like this. Put it back together, plug it in, turn it on and see if it works.
PlayStation Power Supply Replacement
If your PlayStation won’t power on, the power...
- Before you begin, make sure the console is turned off and unplugged. Turn the console upside down and remove the five 15.8 mm-long Phillips #1 screws.
- While holding the top and bottom halves of the console together, flip the console back over. Lift the top cover straight up to remove it.
- Pull the power supply cable straight up and out of its socket on the power supply to disconnect it.
- Remove the two 14 mm-long Phillips #1 screws securing the power supply to the bottom case.
- Lift the outer edge of the power supply slightly, then rotate the whole power supply away from the small clip on its inner edge to remove the power supply.
PlayStation Power Supply Replacement
This will guide you through the replacement of...
- Remove the two screws securing the power supply to the console.
- Detach the connector from the power supply.
- Lift up the left side of the power supply. Slide it to the left to remove it.
Source et licence
Guides iFixit, publiés sous Creative Commons BY-NC-SA — réutilisation autorisée avec attribution, usage non commercial et partage à l'identique. C'est, de toute la documentation rassemblée ici, la seule sous licence explicite ; les manuels constructeur n'en ont aucune. Les photos d'étapes restent sur iFixit — seul le texte est repris.
Mods populaires — quoi acheter, où, procédures¶
Repères
Procédures d'après ConsoleMods (CC-BY-SA). Révision de carte = repère PU-x (au dos). Soudure : 🟢 aucune · 🟡 · 🟠 · 🔴.
Jeux sur SD — ODE (remplacer le lecteur CD)¶
- xStation — carte interne à souder (nappe + quelques fils sur la carte mère) → jeux depuis carte SD, avec tray optionnel. La voie préservation la plus propre. Où : revendeurs xStation, Stone Age Gamer.
- MODE (Terraonion) — ODE multi-console (gère aussi la PS1) ; PSIO — plus ancien (nappe + switch board), plus rare. → fiche PSIO / xStation.
Region-free / CD-R — modchip¶
Pourquoi un modchip (mécanisme, d'après ConsoleMods CC-BY-SA)
Le CD PS1 porte une chaîne région de 4 caractères dans un motif ondulé radial (« wobble ») de la zone d'amorçage (lead-in) — non reproductible au gravage : SCEI = NTSC:J, SCEA = NTSC:U/C, SCEE = PAL, SCEW = Yaroze (ce sont les mêmes chaînes que l'écran de boot noir). Le mechacon vérifie aussi cette chaîne → on ne peut pas juste patcher le boot ROM. Le modchip injecte la fausse chaîne SCEx au bon moment → CD-R/imports acceptés.
- PsNee (recommandé) = design open-source (ATtiny/Arduino flashé) : marche sur tous les modèles, stealth ~parfait (décode le SUBQ du lecteur pour n'injecter qu'au bon moment), ~6 fils sur la plupart des cartes, et flotte ses I/O au repos (réduit le bruit de captation des PM-41(2)). Gère aussi le patch boot ROM des PSone PAL.
- Alternatives : Mayumi V4 / MM3 (bon stealth PU-18+ ; MM3 gère aussi PU-7/8), OneChip (PSone PAL).
- Sans soudure : FreePSXBoot — exploit carte mémoire qui charge un loader (backups/homebrew) sans puce. → FreePSXBoot / PsNee archivés chez nous (fiche PS1 ODE).
Où se soude le modchip selon la carte (générations PU-x) — transcrit de ConsoleMods (CC-BY-SA)
Le point d'injection a changé au fil des révisions : - PU-7 / PU-8 : circuit de détection multi-puces (PsNee = le seul avec un bon stealth ici ; il utilise l'horloge interne, pas celle du mechacon). - PU-18 / PU-20 : IC analogique semi-custom qui sort le wobble démodulé en données série NRZ vers le mechacon → c'est là que les modchips injectaient le faux SCEx. - PU-22 et + (SCEx fusionné dans le SUBQ, chaîne de traitement du wobble supprimée) : on injecte via le signal WFCK (du CD processor) tiré dans l'ampli de tracking + le signal TE — d'où les mods « 3 fils + link ».
⚠️ Les points de soudure exacts par révision (SCPH-xxxx / PU-x) sont des schémas illustrés du Wiki open-source PsNee — non recopiés/inventés ici (une erreur = pas de lecture CD). Repère ta carte (PU-x au dos) et suis le diagramme correspondant.
Vidéo¶
- RGB natif (câble péritel) — excellent d'origine, mais la PS1 ne sort PAS de CSYNC : le câble RGB tire d'ordinaire la sync du luma ou du composite (OK pour la plupart des upscalers/BVM), mais certains équipements pro (Extron…) exigent une CSYNC propre ou du RGBHV → d'où le mod ci-dessous.
- Dual Frequency Oscillator (DFO) : oscillateur commutable → sortie 50/60 Hz propre (PAL↔NTSC, réduction du jitter).
- PSone (petit modèle) : mods luminosité et S-Video pour l'écran LCD d'origine.
CSYNC Output Mod — points exacts (transcrit de ConsoleMods, CC-BY-SA)
Le CSYNC se prend directement sur la broche 20 de l'encodeur Sony CXA1645M (au dos de la carte) — point universel. (Selon le modèle PU-20 / PU-22, il existe des points d'accès plus commodes dessus et dessous, repérés en images sur ConsoleMods ; PU-7/8/18/23 : non documentés.)
Câblage de sortie (au choix) : - RGBS : remplacer le luma OU le chroma de la prise AV par le CSYNC (désactive le S-Video), ou le composite par le CSYNC (désactive le composite, sauf modèle à prise composite dédiée), ou percer le boîtier pour une prise RGBS dédiée. - RGBHV : retirer le port série et poser un port VGA femelle, ou remplacer luma/chroma par H-Sync et V-Sync. - ⚠️ PSone (PM-41) : la CSYNC doit passer par une résistance 75 Ω + un condensateur électrolytique 220 µF en série avant usage. (Le PM-41(2) tardif n'a pas de points confirmés.)
Sauvegardes & divers¶
- MemCard PRO / PRO2 (ou Bitfunx PSxMemCard Gen2) : carte mémoire virtuelle SD (des milliers de
blocs, gestion par jeu, images
.mcr). - 8 Mo RAM mod, Overclocking, In-Game Reset (IGR), Digital Audio (SPDIF), recap (kit condos) + réparation lecteur (laser/courroie).
- Port parallèle (cartes early PU-7/8) : cartouches triche/dev (GameShark/Xplorer) — absent des cartes tardives.
Homebrew & émulation¶
- Net Yaroze (DTL-H, console noire) : kit amateur officiel des années 90 — ancêtre du homebrew PS1.
- Émulation : DuckStation (excellent, PGXP = correction perspective + anti-jitter), Beetle PSX, no$psx.
Photos / assets¶
(À ajouter : SCPH-1000 vs PSone, bloc laser, sorties AV.)
Réparation avancée
Laser (KSM-440, rails/gear) = point faible n°1 + recap ; alternative ODE (préser- vation). Méthodes : ODE (lecteur optique) · Recap · Diagnostic PCB.
Sources & attribution¶
- Wikipédia — PlayStation — CC-BY-SA — https://fr.wikipedia.org/wiki/PlayStation_(console)
- ConsoleMods — PS1 : CSYNC Output Mod (CSYNC = br.20 du CXA1645M au dos ; PSone PM-41 = 75 Ω + 220 µF série) — CC-BY-SA — https://consolemods.org/wiki/PS1:CSYNC_Output_Mod
- ConsoleMods — PS1 : Modchips (SCEx SCEI/SCEA/SCEE/SCEW ; PU-7/8 multi-puces, PU-18/20 NRZ, PU-22+ WFCK/TE ; PsNee ~6 fils SUBQ-stealth) — CC-BY-SA — https://consolemods.org/wiki/PS1:Modchips
- PsNee — dépôt open-source (câblage par board = diagrammes Wiki) — https://github.com/kalymos/PsNee/wiki
- Console5 TechWiki — Sony PlayStation (révisions PU-7→PU-23, mapping SCPH via schémas, listes recap par carte/module d'alim) — https://wiki.console5.com/wiki/Sony_PlayStation
Image :
-
ps1-board.jpg— Evan-Amos, domaine public — https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Sony-PlayStation-SCPH-1000-Motherboard-Top.jpg
Relecture & corrections
À quoi sert cet espace
Une valeur fausse, une procédure dépassée, une référence de puce qui ne colle pas à ta carte ? Signale-le ici, avec ce que tu as constaté (modèle, révision de carte, numéro de série, mesure). Chaque signalement est recoupé avec une source avant toute modification — une correction invérifiable est publiée en tant que « signalé par …, non recoupé » plutôt qu'appliquée en silence.
La lecture est ouverte à tous ; écrire demande une connexion Discord. Les signalements des relecteurs déclarés du wiki sont traités en priorité ; les autres sont lus aussi, mais passent par un humain avant toute modification.