Nintendo Wii¶

Console de Nintendo (2006), rétrocompatible GameCube. CPU PowerPC « Broadway », GPU ATI « Hollywood ». Sa force pour la préservation : elle est softmoddable (Homebrew Channel, sans mod matériel) — region-free, USB loaders, sauvegardes.

Identification¶

Champ	Valeur
Fabricant	Nintendo
Sortie	2006
Génération	7e
Rétrocompat	GameCube (modèles RVL-001)
Sortie vidéo	Composite, S-Video, RGB natif (Péritel), Component (480p) — pas de HDMI natif
Média	DVD (Wii + disques GC)

Architecture (détail)¶

Bloc	Puce	Fréquence	Notes
CPU	PowerPC Broadway (successeur du Gekko)	729 MHz
GPU	ATI Hollywood	243 MHz	intègre 3 Mo eDRAM + 24 Mo 1T-SRAM
RAM	24 Mo 1T-SRAM + 64 Mo GDDR3
Sécurité	coprocesseur Starlet (ARM, dans Hollywood)		cible des exploits softmod

La rétrocompat GameCube est native (le Broadway est un Gekko « overclocké ») : les modèles RVL-001 ont les ports manettes + carte mémoire GC et lisent les mini-DVD GameCube. Les révisions RVL-101 (Family Edition) puis Wii mini les suppriment.

RGB natif : PAL seulement

Comme la plupart des consoles Nintendo de l'époque, la Wii ne sort du RGB Péritel que sur les modèles PAL. Les Wii NTSC ne délivrent pas de RGB analogique — il faut passer par le Component (YPbPr, 480p) ou un mod HDMI numérique interne.

Historique des exploits (softmod)¶

La préservation Wii repose sur une chaîne d'exploits logiciels (aucun matériel) : Twilight Hack (via Zelda: Twilight Princess), Bannerbomb, puis LetterBomb (via un message de la chaîne d'accueil, dépend de l'adresse MAC) et str2hax (par les réglages réseau). Ils installent le Homebrew Channel et BootMii (sauvegarde/restauration de la NAND — filet de sécurité contre le brick). C'est cette accessibilité qui fait de la Wii une plateforme de préservation de choix.

Manettes & accessoires¶

Wii Remote : accéléromètre + pointeur infrarouge (la « Sensor Bar » n'est qu'une barre de LED IR — remplaçable par deux bougies !). Nunchuk (accéléromètre + stick).
MotionPlus : dongle gyroscope (précision 1:1), intégré dans la Wii Remote Plus.
Classic Controller / Classic Controller Pro (jeux VC/rétro), Balance Board (Wii Fit), Wii Wheel, Zapper.
Services (fermés) : WiiConnect24, Wii Shop / Console Virtuelle.
⚠️ Le « vWii » (mode Wii de la Wii U) est une autre machine — ne pas confondre.

Pannes & maintenance¶

Console fiable ; le point faible est le lecteur DVD (usure).
Recap secondaire.
Modèle Wii mini / Family Edition (RVL-101) : sans lecteur GC ni certaines sorties.

Procédures de démontage pas-à-pas ✅¶

17 procédures transcrites depuis les guides iFixit, avec leur difficulté et leur durée estimée.

Procédure	Difficulté	Durée
Blank Screen Repair Techniques	🟢 très facile	1 - 20 minutes
Nintendo Wii Teardown	🟡 moyen	1 - 2 hours
Nintendo Wii Bluetooth Board Replacement	🟡 moyen	30 minutes - 1 hour
Nintendo Wii Bottom Panel Replacement	🟡 moyen	No estimate
Nintendo Wii DVD Drive Replacement	🟡 moyen	35 minutes - 2 hours
Nintendo Wii DVD Drive Replacement	🟡 moyen	1 - 2 hours
Nintendo Wii DVD Drive Lens Replacement	🟡 moyen	1 - 2 hours
Servicing the Nintendo Wii (RVL-001) disc drive	🟡 moyen	15 minutes - 3 hours
Nintendo Wii Drive Board Fuse Replacement	🔴 très difficile	45 minutes
Nintendo Wii Faceplate Replacement	🟡 moyen	5 - 15 minutes
Nintendo Wii Fan Replacement	🟡 moyen	30 minutes - 1 hour
Nintendo Wii Heat Sink Replacement	🟡 moyen	45 minutes - 2 hours
Nintendo Wii Motherboard Replacement	🟡 moyen	1 - 3 hours
Nintendo Wii Motherboard Cover Replacement	🟡 moyen	No estimate
Nintendo Wii Outer Case Replacement	🟡 moyen	20 - 40 minutes
Nintendo Wii Wi-Fi Antennas Replacement	🟡 moyen	30 minutes - 1 hour
Nintendo Wii Wi-Fi Board Replacement	🟡 moyen	35 - 45 minutes

Blank Screen Repair Techniques

Due to the number of questions that sound...

If your Wii isn't outputting any video, the last thing you'd want to do is take it apart when the problem turns out to be that you forgot to turn on your TV! Therefore, to rule that out, I suggest that you ensure that your console and your TV are both powered on, and your TV is set to the correct source. If that doesn't work...
If you have a Wii Mini (Red and black, toploading), check to be sure that you're using an A/V cable (Red, white, and yellow plugs) and not a Component cable (Two red plugs, one white plug, one green plug, and one blue plug). The Wii Mini is incompatible with component cables. Skip this step if you aren't fixing a Wii Mini. If that doesn't work...
Yeah, yeah, we've all seen it before. You turn off your Wii and your Samsung TV (If you don't have a Samsung TV, just go with it) displays, "Check cable connections". But this time, you actually might need to do that! It's at least worth trying before you resort to dismantling your Wii, anyway. Be sure all the cables are in and reconnect if needed. If that doesn't work...
This may sound crazy, but it actually helps sometimes, especially if your TV's ports are... finicky. Twist 'em a little... pull 'em out... put 'em back in... whatever you think falls under "Fiddling"! Okay, maybe not ANYTHING. Just do whatever sort of thing you think would help make a better connection. Don't hold back (too much)! If that doesn't work...
If you happen to have an extra A/V cable handy, test it to rule out the current cable as a problem. If that doesn't work, see if you can get your hands on another one, just to be certain it's not the cable. IMPORTANT: As mentioned in previous steps, be sure to connect the cables correctly, and be sure that they are "in" well enough. If that doesn't work...
For people who happen to have more than one compatible TV, you may find it useful to know whether or not it's the TV by testing your Wii on a different one. This is optional, but it's recommended if you have more than one TV and are unsure if your TV is causing the problem. If that doesn't work...
Okay... some of you are, perhaps, wondering how one might do this while unable to see anything on the screen. It's simple, really: By holding DOWN on the Wii remote's D-pad (while holding the Wii remote in vertical position) and RESET on the console while it's booting up, the resolution setting is reset to 480i. See? Simple! If that doesn't work...
And how do you do that? Well, you unplug the console from the AC adapter, then wait a few seconds (as a rule of thumb, I would say that anywhere from 15 seconds to a minute should do the trick), then plug it back in. If that doesn't work...
If your TV has a settings menu, check it! Be sure there aren't any odd zoom or pan settings active, and if they are, turn them off. Some TVs also allow you to reset settings to factory defaults, so try this if all else fails.

Nintendo Wii Teardown

In this teardown, we open a Wii to the logic...

Disconnect all external cords from the Wii console. Gather all tools.
One small screw holds the BIOS memory battery. Once that screw is removed, you can slide out the plastic slot.
Remove these three black case screws. The one on the right is a few mm longer. These screws hold on the black plastic cover for the GameCube ports.
Lift off the black plastic plate. There are four screws: two Phillips #00 and two Tri-Wing.
Remove all screws from the case. Some screws are under rubber feet, or small, square paper screw covers (red square). I used a sharp metal tool to get under the screw covers. You could use an X-acto knife. Several case screws require a Tri-Wing screwdriver. The next step has more pictures of removing rubber feet and the screws underneath. The feet and screwcovers are self-adhesive, but not every foot or screwcover has a screw.
Remove rubber feet and screws underneath.
Careful! If you don't remove the feet and the screws underneath before you try to pull off the front panel, the tab can split! Once all screws are removed, you should be able to pull off the front drive panel. The wire connecting the front panel (green squares in the third image) can be pulled out gently by hand or with the help of a spudger.
Now the case can be pulled apart.
We lifted up the cover of the optical drive by removing the six Phillips #00 screws. These are all labeled on the previous image. Because of a secured wire leading to the drive, we reattached the cover to facilitate the remove of the entire drive assembly without harming any of the electronics. There are a ton of parts in the optical drive, but there is nothing very fancy about this drive compared to other slot-loading drives, so I didn't take it apart completely. There are also a ton of gears and levers that I did not want to deal with.
The screws holding in the drive were deep within the casing. Once those screws were removed, the entire case could be lifted off. Don't pull too hard! There are two cables attaching the drive to the logic board underneath. This wire slid out from its horizontal slot. Once it was detached, the ribbon cable came out as well.
With those wires detached, the optical drive came off completely.
We begin trying to get to the logic board by removing this small black plastic rim. Once within the case, all screws are Phillips #00. There are marked on the logic board with arrows, triangles, boxes, and crosses. From what I can tell, an arrow means that it just goes through the logic board cover. A triangle means that it is a longer logic board cover screw. A cross means that it holds on a plastic piece, and a box means that it holds on another EM shield / or heat sink.
Remove all screws from the logic board cover. Two are recessed in the middle; others are along the edge. More will become visible as other parts are removed. It's like a game! You can start with the screws holding in the black plastic pieces, but I started with the most visible and went from there. There are two wires (shown in the third picture) coming from the logic board and connected to the Wi-Fi antennas. These are delicate. Do not break them.
Take out these screws in the black plastic casing.
Detach the case fan. There are two screws holding it in. You must detach the power connector for the fan if you want to remove it completely.
If your screwdriver is not magnetized, you will need a magnet to get out some of the embedded screws. You can hold a magnet against your screwdriver shaft to temporarily magnetize it. Once all the screws out, you can begin to remove the black casing.
With the black plastic covers off, we can see all the screw holes. Most of the screws are out by now, but once the rest of them are out, you can lift off the logic board cover. Note that at least one part is thermal padded to the logic board cover. You might have to replace this thermal pad, but I didn't. I just pushed them back together. Oh well! Remove any remaining screws in the logic board cover.
Once all screws are removed, lift off the logic board cover.
Look around. This is the thermal padding. We opted not to remove the heat sink from the logic board, but it certainly could be removed.
Take some more awesome photos.
And take a couple more photos.
We stopped there. A muffin tin worked really well to organize all the screws. Putting the Wii back together took only about half an hour, and it works perfectly. We improved Nintendo's design by three or four screws and one square nut, but worsened their design by one piece of duct tape (to hold in the bios battery).

Nintendo Wii Bluetooth Board Replacement

Use this guide to replace your Wii's Bluetooth...

Use a metal spudger to remove the white plastic screw covers stuck to the lower case near the front of the Wii.
Remove the two 8.3 mm Tri-Point screws hidden under the covers you just removed.
Remove the single 5.9 mm Phillips screw under the controller port door nearest the faceplate.
Use a metal spudger to remove the rubber foot stuck to the side of the Wii near the DVD drive opening.
Remove the single 5.9 mm Phillips screw hidden under the foot you just removed.
Carefully pull the faceplate away from the front of the Wii. Use a pair of to disconnect the LED cable's plastic from the motherboard. Remove the faceplate.
Open the controller port cover until it is perpendicular to the black controller port bezel. Pull the controller port cover straight up to release it from the outer case. Repeat this procedure for the memory card port cover.
Remove the two remaining 4.1 mm Phillips screws along the top edge of the black plastic controller port bezel. Lift the bezel from the long edge furthest away from the controller ports and remove it from the Wii.
Remove the two 5 mm Phillips screws above the controller ports.
Use a metal spudger to remove the three highlighted screw covers stuck to the side of the Wii.
Remove the following screws: Two 5 mm Phillips screws One 8.2 mm Tri-Point screw
Use a metal spudger to remove the two rubber feet stuck to the bottom face of the Wii near the rear ports.
Remove the two 8.2 mm Tri-Point screws hidden under the feet you just removed. You may use a mm hex nut driver|new_window=true to extend your bit into the recesses and reach the screws.
Lift the outer case straight up off the body of the Wii.
Remove the small Phillips screw securing the battery door to the bottom panel. This screw is captive to the battery door. Pull the battery door out of the Wii. The system time will be reset once you remove the battery door. This is a good time to change the CR2032 battery if it hasn't been changed recently.
Remove the 8.2 mm Tri-Point screw that was hidden beneath the battery door.
Remove the two 8.2 mm Tri-Point screws securing the DVD drive shield near the controller ports.
Be cautious as you remove the DVD shield, the edges are sharp and could cut you Lift the DVD drive shield upward and remove it from the Wii.
Remove the four 9 mm Phillips screws securing the DVD drive to the bottom panel.
Lift the side of the DVD drive opposite the controller ports enough to access the cables on its bottom face. Carefully pull the DVD drive power cable out from under the plastic shroud near the heat sink.
Pull the DVD drive power cable away from its socket on the DVD drive.
Use your fingernail to flip up the retaining flap on the DVD drive ribbon cable socket. Be sure you are prying up on the retaining flap, not the socket itself. Pull the DVD drive ribbon cable out of its socket. Remove the DVD drive from the Wii.
Use a pair of to lift the fan connector up and out of its socket on the logic board. Be sure your tweezers are clamped down on the fan connector, not the socket on the motherboard.
Remove the two 10 mm Phillips screws securing the fan to the fan shroud. Remove the fan from the Wii.
Use the tip of a spudger or another fine-pointed tool to carefully pry one of the black plastic retaining fingers attached to the fan shroud away from the Wi-Fi antenna board. Lift the Wi-Fi antenna out of the fan shroud.
Remove the single 10 mm Phillips screw securing the second Wi-Fi antenna to the top of the fan shroud.
Remove the two pieces of tape securing the second Wi-Fi antenna cable to the plastic bracket near the heat sink.
Carefully de-route both antennas from the frame of the Wii and lay them aside.
Remove the three 10 mm Phillips screws securing the fan shroud to the Wii. Lift the fan shroud off the heat sink and remove it from the Wii.
Remove the following six screws securing the EMI fingers to the bottom panel: Four 7 mm Phillips screws Two 11.3 mm Phillips screws Remove both sets of EMI fingers from the Wii.
Remove the following three screws: One 7 mm Phillips screw Two 10 mm Phillips screws Lift the bracket out of the Wii.
Remove the three 10 mm Phillips screws securing the black bracket to the bottom panel near the front of the Wii. Slightly lift the bracket and use your other hand to pull the retaining clip away from where the Wi-Fi antennas enter the motherboard sheild. Remove the bracket from the Wii. Be sure not to lose the small square nut loosely held by the black plastic bracket.
Remove the nine remaining 7 mm Phillips screws securing the motherboard cover to the bottom panel.
Carefully lift the motherboard cover off the motherboard, minding any cables that may get caught. On some models, a thermal pad for the wireless chip is attached to the underside of the motherboard cover. Be sure to replace it when reassembling.
Use the flat end of a spudger or your fingertips to lift up the end of the Bluetooth board nearest the center of the motherboard. Carefully peel the front edge of the Bluetooth board off the EMI foam attached to the motherboard. Remove the Bluetooth board.

Nintendo Wii Bottom Panel Replacement

Replacing the bottom panel requires removal of...

Use a metal spudger to remove the white plastic screw covers stuck to the lower case near the front of the Wii.
Remove the two 8.3 mm Tri-Point screws hidden under the covers you just removed.
Remove the single 5.9 mm Phillips screw under the controller port door nearest the faceplate.
Use a metal spudger to remove the rubber foot stuck to the side of the Wii near the DVD drive opening.
Remove the single 5.9 mm Phillips screw hidden under the foot you just removed.
Carefully pull the faceplate away from the front of the Wii. Use a pair of to disconnect the LED cable's plastic from the motherboard. Remove the faceplate.
Open the controller port cover until it is perpendicular to the black controller port bezel. Pull the controller port cover straight up to release it from the outer case. Repeat this procedure for the memory card port cover.
Remove the two remaining 4.1 mm Phillips screws along the top edge of the black plastic controller port bezel. Lift the bezel from the long edge furthest away from the controller ports and remove it from the Wii.
Remove the two 5 mm Phillips screws above the controller ports.
Use a metal spudger to remove the three highlighted screw covers stuck to the side of the Wii.
Remove the following screws: Two 5 mm Phillips screws One 8.2 mm Tri-Point screw
Use a metal spudger to remove the two rubber feet stuck to the bottom face of the Wii near the rear ports.
Remove the two 8.2 mm Tri-Point screws hidden under the feet you just removed. You may use a mm hex nut driver|new_window=true to extend your bit into the recesses and reach the screws.
Lift the outer case straight up off the body of the Wii.
Remove the small Phillips screw securing the battery door to the bottom panel. This screw is captive to the battery door. Pull the battery door out of the Wii. The system time will be reset once you remove the battery door. This is a good time to change the CR2032 battery if it hasn't been changed recently.
Remove the 8.2 mm Tri-Point screw that was hidden beneath the battery door.
Remove the two 8.2 mm Tri-Point screws securing the DVD drive shield near the controller ports.
Be cautious as you remove the DVD shield, the edges are sharp and could cut you Lift the DVD drive shield upward and remove it from the Wii.
Remove the four 9 mm Phillips screws securing the DVD drive to the bottom panel.
Lift the side of the DVD drive opposite the controller ports enough to access the cables on its bottom face. Carefully pull the DVD drive power cable out from under the plastic shroud near the heat sink.
Pull the DVD drive power cable away from its socket on the DVD drive.
Use your fingernail to flip up the retaining flap on the DVD drive ribbon cable socket. Be sure you are prying up on the retaining flap, not the socket itself. Pull the DVD drive ribbon cable out of its socket. Remove the DVD drive from the Wii.
Use a pair of to lift the fan connector up and out of its socket on the logic board. Be sure your tweezers are clamped down on the fan connector, not the socket on the motherboard.
Remove the two 10 mm Phillips screws securing the fan to the fan shroud. Remove the fan from the Wii.
Use the tip of a spudger or another fine-pointed tool to carefully pry one of the black plastic retaining fingers attached to the fan shroud away from the Wi-Fi antenna board. Lift the Wi-Fi antenna out of the fan shroud.
Remove the single 10 mm Phillips screw securing the second Wi-Fi antenna to the top of the fan shroud.
Remove the two pieces of tape securing the second Wi-Fi antenna cable to the plastic bracket near the heat sink.
Carefully de-route both antennas from the frame of the Wii and lay them aside.
Remove the three 10 mm Phillips screws securing the fan shroud to the Wii. Lift the fan shroud off the heat sink and remove it from the Wii.
Remove the following six screws securing the EMI fingers to the bottom panel: Four 7 mm Phillips screws Two 11.3 mm Phillips screws Remove both sets of EMI fingers from the Wii.
Remove the following three screws: One 7 mm Phillips screw Two 10 mm Phillips screws Lift the bracket out of the Wii.
Remove the three 10 mm Phillips screws securing the black bracket to the bottom panel near the front of the Wii. Slightly lift the bracket and use your other hand to pull the retaining clip away from where the Wi-Fi antennas enter the motherboard sheild. Remove the bracket from the Wii. Be sure not to lose the small square nut loosely held by the black plastic bracket.
Remove the nine remaining 7 mm Phillips screws securing the motherboard cover to the bottom panel.
Carefully lift the motherboard cover off the motherboard, minding any cables that may get caught. On some models, a thermal pad for the wireless chip is attached to the underside of the motherboard cover. Be sure to replace it when reassembling.
Remove the four 11.3 mm Phillips screws securing the heat sink to the bottom panel.
Lift the heat sink off the motherboard. When working near the exposed processors, be sure not to disturb the thermal pads if you don't plan to replace them. They are fragile and can tear easily. If you do plan to replace the thermal pads, thermal paste can be used.
Lift the motherboard assembly off the bottom panel, minding any cables that may get caught. Bottom panel remains. Be sure to keep track of the small piece of foam highlighted in red.

Nintendo Wii DVD Drive Replacement

Use this guide to replace a broken DVD drive.

Use a metal spudger to remove the white plastic screw covers stuck to the lower case near the front of the Wii.
Remove the two 8.3 mm Tri-Point screws hidden under the covers you just removed.
Remove the single 5.9 mm Phillips screw under the controller port door nearest the faceplate.
Use a metal spudger to remove the rubber foot stuck to the side of the Wii near the DVD drive opening.
Remove the single 5.9 mm Phillips screw hidden under the foot you just removed.
Carefully pull the faceplate away from the front of the Wii. Use a pair of to disconnect the LED cable's plastic from the motherboard. Remove the faceplate.
Open the controller port cover until it is perpendicular to the black controller port bezel. Pull the controller port cover straight up to release it from the outer case. Repeat this procedure for the memory card port cover.
Remove the two remaining 4.1 mm Phillips screws along the top edge of the black plastic controller port bezel. Lift the bezel from the long edge furthest away from the controller ports and remove it from the Wii.
Remove the two 5 mm Phillips screws above the controller ports.
Use a metal spudger to remove the three highlighted screw covers stuck to the side of the Wii.
Remove the following screws: Two 5 mm Phillips screws One 8.2 mm Tri-Point screw
Use a metal spudger to remove the two rubber feet stuck to the bottom face of the Wii near the rear ports.
Remove the two 8.2 mm Tri-Point screws hidden under the feet you just removed. You may use a mm hex nut driver|new_window=true to extend your bit into the recesses and reach the screws.
Lift the outer case straight up off the body of the Wii.
Remove the small Phillips screw securing the battery door to the bottom panel. This screw is captive to the battery door. Pull the battery door out of the Wii. The system time will be reset once you remove the battery door. This is a good time to change the CR2032 battery if it hasn't been changed recently.
Remove the 8.2 mm Tri-Point screw that was hidden beneath the battery door.
Remove the two 8.2 mm Tri-Point screws securing the DVD drive shield near the controller ports.
Be cautious as you remove the DVD shield, the edges are sharp and could cut you Lift the DVD drive shield upward and remove it from the Wii.
Remove the four 9 mm Phillips screws securing the DVD drive to the bottom panel.
Lift the side of the DVD drive opposite the controller ports enough to access the cables on its bottom face. Carefully pull the DVD drive power cable out from under the plastic shroud near the heat sink.
Pull the DVD drive power cable away from its socket on the DVD drive.
Use your fingernail to flip up the retaining flap on the DVD drive ribbon cable socket. Be sure you are prying up on the retaining flap, not the socket itself. Pull the DVD drive ribbon cable out of its socket. Remove the DVD drive from the Wii.

Nintendo Wii DVD Drive Replacement

Use this guide to replace a broken DVD drive....

Use a metal spudger to remove the white plastic screw covers stuck to the lower case near the front of the Wii.
Remove the two 8.3 mm Tri-Point screws hidden under the covers you just removed.
Remove the single 5.9 mm Phillips screw under the controller port door nearest the faceplate.
Use a metal spudger to remove the rubber foot stuck to the side of the Wii near the DVD drive opening.
Remove the single 5.9 mm Phillips screw hidden under the foot you just removed.
Carefully pull the faceplate away from the front of the Wii. Use a pair of to disconnect the LED cable's plastic from the motherboard. Remove the faceplate.
Open the controller port cover until it is perpendicular to the black controller port bezel. Pull the controller port cover straight up to release it from the outer case. Repeat this procedure for the memory card port cover.
Remove the two remaining 4.1 mm Phillips screws along the top edge of the black plastic controller port bezel. Lift the bezel from the long edge furthest away from the controller ports and remove it from the Wii.
Remove the two 5 mm Phillips screws above the controller ports.
Use a metal spudger to remove the three highlighted screw covers stuck to the side of the Wii.
Remove the following screws: Two 5 mm Phillips screws One 8.2 mm Tri-Point screw
Use a metal spudger to remove the two rubber feet stuck to the bottom face of the Wii near the rear ports.
Remove the two 8.2 mm Tri-Point screws hidden under the feet you just removed. You may use a mm hex nut driver|new_window=true to extend your bit into the recesses and reach the screws.
Lift the outer case straight up off the body of the Wii.
Remove the small Phillips screw securing the battery door to the bottom panel. This screw is captive to the battery door. Pull the battery door out of the Wii. The system time will be reset once you remove the battery door. This is a good time to change the CR2032 battery if it hasn't been changed recently.
Remove the 8.2 mm Tri-Point screw that was hidden beneath the battery door.
Remove the two 8.2 mm Tri-Point screws securing the DVD drive shield near the controller ports.
Be cautious as you remove the DVD shield, the edges are sharp and could cut you Lift the DVD drive shield upward and remove it from the Wii.
Remove the four 9 mm Phillips screws securing the DVD drive to the bottom panel.
Lift the side of the DVD drive opposite the controller ports enough to access the cables on its bottom face. Carefully pull the DVD drive power cable out from under the plastic shroud near the heat sink.
Pull the DVD drive power cable away from its socket on the DVD drive.
Use your fingernail to flip up the retaining flap on the DVD drive ribbon cable socket. Be sure you are prying up on the retaining flap, not the socket itself. Pull the DVD drive ribbon cable out of its socket. Remove the DVD drive from the Wii.
The following steps are only necessary if your replacement Wii DVD drive does not include the four rubber grommets along the front and rear of the DVD drive housing. Insert the tip of a long, skinny screwdriver into the hole in the center of the first grommet on the rear of the DVD drive housing. Pull the grommet straight away from the DVD drive housing until it is free.
Repeat the procedure described in the preceding step for the second rubber grommet on the rear of the DVD drive housing.
Set the DVD drive on its side, with the two rubber grommets along the front of the drive facing you. Insert the end of the skinny screwdriver into the hole in the center of the lower rubber grommet along the front of the DVD drive housing. Pull the screwdriver straight up until the grommet is free.
Rotate the DVD drive housing 180 degrees so that it is resting on the side opposite that of the previous step. Repeat the procedure in the preceding step to remove the second rubber grommet along the front of the DVD drive housing.

Nintendo Wii DVD Drive Lens Replacement

Most disc read errors (DREs) can be fixed by...

Use a metal spudger to remove the white plastic screw covers stuck to the lower case near the front of the Wii.
Remove the two 8.3 mm Tri-Point screws hidden under the covers you just removed.
Remove the single 5.9 mm Phillips screw under the controller port door nearest the faceplate.
Use a metal spudger to remove the rubber foot stuck to the side of the Wii near the DVD drive opening.
Remove the single 5.9 mm Phillips screw hidden under the foot you just removed.
Carefully pull the faceplate away from the front of the Wii. Use a pair of to disconnect the LED cable's plastic from the motherboard. Remove the faceplate.
Open the controller port cover until it is perpendicular to the black controller port bezel. Pull the controller port cover straight up to release it from the outer case. Repeat this procedure for the memory card port cover.
Remove the two remaining 4.1 mm Phillips screws along the top edge of the black plastic controller port bezel. Lift the bezel from the long edge furthest away from the controller ports and remove it from the Wii.
Remove the two 5 mm Phillips screws above the controller ports.
Use a metal spudger to remove the three highlighted screw covers stuck to the side of the Wii.
Remove the following screws: Two 5 mm Phillips screws One 8.2 mm Tri-Point screw
Use a metal spudger to remove the two rubber feet stuck to the bottom face of the Wii near the rear ports.
Remove the two 8.2 mm Tri-Point screws hidden under the feet you just removed. You may use a mm hex nut driver|new_window=true to extend your bit into the recesses and reach the screws.
Lift the outer case straight up off the body of the Wii.
Remove the small Phillips screw securing the battery door to the bottom panel. This screw is captive to the battery door. Pull the battery door out of the Wii. The system time will be reset once you remove the battery door. This is a good time to change the CR2032 battery if it hasn't been changed recently.
Remove the 8.2 mm Tri-Point screw that was hidden beneath the battery door.
Remove the two 8.2 mm Tri-Point screws securing the DVD drive shield near the controller ports.
Be cautious as you remove the DVD shield, the edges are sharp and could cut you Lift the DVD drive shield upward and remove it from the Wii.
Remove the four 9 mm Phillips screws securing the DVD drive to the bottom panel.
Lift the side of the DVD drive opposite the controller ports enough to access the cables on its bottom face. Carefully pull the DVD drive power cable out from under the plastic shroud near the heat sink.
Pull the DVD drive power cable away from its socket on the DVD drive.
Use your fingernail to flip up the retaining flap on the DVD drive ribbon cable socket. Be sure you are prying up on the retaining flap, not the socket itself. Pull the DVD drive ribbon cable out of its socket. Remove the DVD drive from the Wii.
Pull the disc detector ribbon cable straight out of its connector with a pair of .
Use the tip of a spudger to push the sides of the ZIF connector fastener securing the spindle motor ribbon cable directly away from the connector. Disconnect the spindle motor ribbon cable by pulling it straight out of its connector with a pair of tweezers.
Remove the piece of black cloth tape that covers a portion of the lens ribbon cable.
Disconnect the lens ribbon cable by first pushing the two locking tabs of the ZIF connector towards the ribbon cable with the tip of a spudger. Use a pair of tweezers to pull the lens ribbon cable straight out of its connector.
Remove the two 5.0 mm Phillips screws securing the DVD drive board to the drive housing.
Lift the DVD drive board off the drive housing by first lifting the side with the lens ribbon cable connector. Pull the opposite side of the DVD drive board straight out while lifting the entire board straight up to free it from the small black plastic tabs holding it in place.
De-route the cables that are soldered to the DVD drive board from underneath their black plastic tabs with the tip of a spudger.
Lay the DVD drive board next to the DVD drive in such a manner that the cables soldered to the DVD drive board are out of the way (as shown in the picture) Remove the single 5.0 mm Phillips screw from the DVD lens EMI shield.
The side of the EMI shield with the slot for the DVD lens ribbon cable has two small metal clips that fasten to black plastic tabs on the DVD drive housing. Use the tip of a spudger to bend the two metal clips up enough so that they are no longer fastened to their respective plastic tabs. The EMI shield is made of a soft, malleable metal. It can be easily be bent out and back into shape, but excessive fatigue may cause the clips to break. Make sure both clips are pushed back down into their original positions at reassembly.
Small tabs on the EMI shield sit in two holes on the outside edge of the DVD drive housing. Insert the tip of a spudger into the hole that is closer to the red and pink wires that connect to the DVD drive board. Rotate the spudger to pry the first tab out of its hole on the DVD drive housing.
Repeat the action in the previous step to pry the second tab on the EMI shield out of its hole on the DVD drive housing. It may be necessary to hold the opposite edge of the EMI shield to keep any of the clips or tabs from reseating.
Grasp the EMI shield by the two edges that are free and rotate the entire piece slightly towards the edge that is still held down until the final two remaining clips are free. Lift the EMI shield straight off the DVD drive.
Remove the 5.0 mm Phillips screw that is closer to the yellow, blue, white, and grey wires.
While holding the DVD drive with one hand, grasp the DVD drive lens retaining pin (closest to the screw that was just removed) with a pair of needle nose pliers. Slide the retaining pin out towards the edge of the DVD drive housing. Freeing the pin will require some force, and will then become very easy. Once the pin moves easily, grab it with your fingers and pull it out of the DVD drive housing completely.
Grab the DVD drive lens assembly by the side that the retaining pin was just removed from. Remove the lens assembly from the DVD drive housing.
Remove the 4.2 mm Phillips screw that secures the white plastic bracket to the lens assembly. Lift the bracket off the lens assembly. If you are going to install a new lens, make sure to transfer the white plastic bracket and screw to the new laser lens before installation.

Servicing the Nintendo Wii (RVL-001) disc drive

Hey Momo here showing you how to service and...

Disconnect all external cords from the Wii console. Gather all tools.
One small screw holds the BIOS memory battery. Once that screw is removed, you can slide out the plastic slot.
Remove these three black case screws. The one on the right is a few mm longer. These screws hold on the black plastic cover for the GameCube ports.
Lift off the black plastic plate. There are four screws: two Phillips #00 and two Tri-Wing.
Remove all screws from the case. Some screws are under rubber feet, or small, square paper screw covers (red square). I used a sharp metal tool to get under the screw covers. You could use an X-acto knife. Several case screws require a Tri-Wing screwdriver. The next step has more pictures of removing rubber feet and the screws underneath. The feet and screwcovers are self-adhesive, but not every foot or screwcover has a screw.
Remove rubber feet and screws underneath.
Careful! If you don't remove the feet and the screws underneath before you try to pull off the front panel, the tab can split! Once all screws are removed, you should be able to pull off the front drive panel. The wire connecting the front panel (green squares in the third image) can be pulled out gently by hand or with the help of a spudger.
Now the case can be pulled apart.
We lifted up the cover of the optical drive by removing the six Phillips #00 screws. These are all labeled on the previous image. Because of a secured wire leading to the drive, we reattached the cover to facilitate the remove of the entire drive assembly without harming any of the electronics. There are a ton of parts in the optical drive, but there is nothing very fancy about this drive compared to other slot-loading drives, so I didn't take it apart completely. There are also a ton of gears and levers that I did not want to deal with.
The screws holding in the drive were deep within the casing. Once those screws were removed, the entire case could be lifted off. Don't pull too hard! There are two cables attaching the drive to the logic board underneath. This wire slid out from its horizontal slot. Once it was detached, the ribbon cable came out as well.
With those wires detached, the optical drive came off completely.
We begin trying to get to the logic board by removing this small black plastic rim. Once within the case, all screws are Phillips #00. There are marked on the logic board with arrows, triangles, boxes, and crosses. From what I can tell, an arrow means that it just goes through the logic board cover. A triangle means that it is a longer logic board cover screw. A cross means that it holds on a plastic piece, and a box means that it holds on another EM shield / or heat sink.
Remove all screws from the logic board cover. Two are recessed in the middle; others are along the edge. More will become visible as other parts are removed. It's like a game! You can start with the screws holding in the black plastic pieces, but I started with the most visible and went from there. There are two wires (shown in the third picture) coming from the logic board and connected to the Wi-Fi antennas. These are delicate. Do not break them.
Take out these screws in the black plastic casing.
Detach the case fan. There are two screws holding it in. You must detach the power connector for the fan if you want to remove it completely.
If your screwdriver is not magnetized, you will need a magnet to get out some of the embedded screws. You can hold a magnet against your screwdriver shaft to temporarily magnetize it. Once all the screws out, you can begin to remove the black casing.
With the black plastic covers off, we can see all the screw holes. Most of the screws are out by now, but once the rest of them are out, you can lift off the logic board cover. Note that at least one part is thermal padded to the logic board cover. You might have to replace this thermal pad, but I didn't. I just pushed them back together. Oh well! Remove any remaining screws in the logic board cover.
Once all screws are removed, lift off the logic board cover.
Look around. This is the thermal padding. We opted not to remove the heat sink from the logic board, but it certainly could be removed.
Take some more awesome photos.
And take a couple more photos.
We stopped there. A muffin tin worked really well to organize all the screws. Putting the Wii back together took only about half an hour, and it works perfectly. We improved Nintendo's design by three or four screws and one square nut, but worsened their design by one piece of duct tape (to hold in the bios battery).

Nintendo Wii Drive Board Fuse Replacement

If you have a drive which fails to spin the...

Use a metal spudger to remove the white plastic screw covers stuck to the lower case near the front of the Wii.
Remove the two 8.3 mm Tri-Point screws hidden under the covers you just removed.
Remove the single 5.9 mm Phillips screw under the controller port door nearest the faceplate.
Use a metal spudger to remove the rubber foot stuck to the side of the Wii near the DVD drive opening.
Remove the single 5.9 mm Phillips screw hidden under the foot you just removed.
Carefully pull the faceplate away from the front of the Wii. Use a pair of to disconnect the LED cable's plastic from the motherboard. Remove the faceplate.
Open the controller port cover until it is perpendicular to the black controller port bezel. Pull the controller port cover straight up to release it from the outer case. Repeat this procedure for the memory card port cover.
Remove the two remaining 4.1 mm Phillips screws along the top edge of the black plastic controller port bezel. Lift the bezel from the long edge furthest away from the controller ports and remove it from the Wii.
Remove the two 5 mm Phillips screws above the controller ports.
Use a metal spudger to remove the three highlighted screw covers stuck to the side of the Wii.
Remove the following screws: Two 5 mm Phillips screws One 8.2 mm Tri-Point screw
Use a metal spudger to remove the two rubber feet stuck to the bottom face of the Wii near the rear ports.
Remove the two 8.2 mm Tri-Point screws hidden under the feet you just removed. You may use a mm hex nut driver|new_window=true to extend your bit into the recesses and reach the screws.
Lift the outer case straight up off the body of the Wii.
Remove the small Phillips screw securing the battery door to the bottom panel. This screw is captive to the battery door. Pull the battery door out of the Wii. The system time will be reset once you remove the battery door. This is a good time to change the CR2032 battery if it hasn't been changed recently.
Remove the 8.2 mm Tri-Point screw that was hidden beneath the battery door.
Remove the two 8.2 mm Tri-Point screws securing the DVD drive shield near the controller ports.
Be cautious as you remove the DVD shield, the edges are sharp and could cut you Lift the DVD drive shield upward and remove it from the Wii.
Remove the four 9 mm Phillips screws securing the DVD drive to the bottom panel.
Lift the side of the DVD drive opposite the controller ports enough to access the cables on its bottom face. Carefully pull the DVD drive power cable out from under the plastic shroud near the heat sink.
Pull the DVD drive power cable away from its socket on the DVD drive.
Use your fingernail to flip up the retaining flap on the DVD drive ribbon cable socket. Be sure you are prying up on the retaining flap, not the socket itself. Pull the DVD drive ribbon cable out of its socket. Remove the DVD drive from the Wii.
Measure across each fuse with a continuity meter. If either fuse is open, you will need to replace it with an 0603 fuse; if one is not available, you can use a 0-ohm resistor or jumper wire for testing purposes.

Nintendo Wii Faceplate Replacement

Use this guide to replace your Wii's faceplate....

Use a metal spudger to remove the white plastic screw covers stuck to the lower case near the front of the Wii.
Remove the two 8.3 mm Tri-Point screws hidden under the covers you just removed.
Remove the single 5.9 mm Phillips screw under the controller port door nearest the faceplate.
Use a metal spudger to remove the rubber foot stuck to the side of the Wii near the DVD drive opening.
Remove the single 5.9 mm Phillips screw hidden under the foot you just removed.
Carefully pull the faceplate away from the front of the Wii. Use a pair of to disconnect the LED cable's plastic from the motherboard. Remove the faceplate.

Nintendo Wii Fan Replacement

Use this guide to replace a worn-out fan.

Use a metal spudger to remove the white plastic screw covers stuck to the lower case near the front of the Wii.
Remove the two 8.3 mm Tri-Point screws hidden under the covers you just removed.
Remove the single 5.9 mm Phillips screw under the controller port door nearest the faceplate.
Use a metal spudger to remove the rubber foot stuck to the side of the Wii near the DVD drive opening.
Remove the single 5.9 mm Phillips screw hidden under the foot you just removed.
Carefully pull the faceplate away from the front of the Wii. Use a pair of to disconnect the LED cable's plastic from the motherboard. Remove the faceplate.
Open the controller port cover until it is perpendicular to the black controller port bezel. Pull the controller port cover straight up to release it from the outer case. Repeat this procedure for the memory card port cover.
Remove the two remaining 4.1 mm Phillips screws along the top edge of the black plastic controller port bezel. Lift the bezel from the long edge furthest away from the controller ports and remove it from the Wii.
Remove the two 5 mm Phillips screws above the controller ports.
Use a metal spudger to remove the three highlighted screw covers stuck to the side of the Wii.
Remove the following screws: Two 5 mm Phillips screws One 8.2 mm Tri-Point screw
Use a metal spudger to remove the two rubber feet stuck to the bottom face of the Wii near the rear ports.
Remove the two 8.2 mm Tri-Point screws hidden under the feet you just removed. You may use a mm hex nut driver|new_window=true to extend your bit into the recesses and reach the screws.
Lift the outer case straight up off the body of the Wii.
Grab the fan connector with a pair of and lift it straight up and out of its socket on the motherboard. Be sure your tweezers are clamped down on the fan connector, not the socket attached to the motherboard.
Remove the two 10 mm Phillips screws securing the fan to the fan shroud.
Remove the fan from the Wii.

Nintendo Wii Heat Sink Replacement

Use this guide to remove the heat sink from...

Use a metal spudger to remove the white plastic screw covers stuck to the lower case near the front of the Wii.
Remove the two 8.3 mm Tri-Point screws hidden under the covers you just removed.
Remove the single 5.9 mm Phillips screw under the controller port door nearest the faceplate.
Use a metal spudger to remove the rubber foot stuck to the side of the Wii near the DVD drive opening.
Remove the single 5.9 mm Phillips screw hidden under the foot you just removed.
Carefully pull the faceplate away from the front of the Wii. Use a pair of to disconnect the LED cable's plastic from the motherboard. Remove the faceplate.
Open the controller port cover until it is perpendicular to the black controller port bezel. Pull the controller port cover straight up to release it from the outer case. Repeat this procedure for the memory card port cover.
Remove the two remaining 4.1 mm Phillips screws along the top edge of the black plastic controller port bezel. Lift the bezel from the long edge furthest away from the controller ports and remove it from the Wii.
Remove the two 5 mm Phillips screws above the controller ports.
Use a metal spudger to remove the three highlighted screw covers stuck to the side of the Wii.
Remove the following screws: Two 5 mm Phillips screws One 8.2 mm Tri-Point screw
Use a metal spudger to remove the two rubber feet stuck to the bottom face of the Wii near the rear ports.
Remove the two 8.2 mm Tri-Point screws hidden under the feet you just removed. You may use a mm hex nut driver|new_window=true to extend your bit into the recesses and reach the screws.
Lift the outer case straight up off the body of the Wii.
Remove the small Phillips screw securing the battery door to the bottom panel. This screw is captive to the battery door. Pull the battery door out of the Wii. The system time will be reset once you remove the battery door. This is a good time to change the CR2032 battery if it hasn't been changed recently.
Remove the 8.2 mm Tri-Point screw that was hidden beneath the battery door.
Remove the two 8.2 mm Tri-Point screws securing the DVD drive shield near the controller ports.
Be cautious as you remove the DVD shield, the edges are sharp and could cut you Lift the DVD drive shield upward and remove it from the Wii.
Remove the four 9 mm Phillips screws securing the DVD drive to the bottom panel.
Lift the side of the DVD drive opposite the controller ports enough to access the cables on its bottom face. Carefully pull the DVD drive power cable out from under the plastic shroud near the heat sink.
Pull the DVD drive power cable away from its socket on the DVD drive.
Use your fingernail to flip up the retaining flap on the DVD drive ribbon cable socket. Be sure you are prying up on the retaining flap, not the socket itself. Pull the DVD drive ribbon cable out of its socket. Remove the DVD drive from the Wii.
Use a pair of to lift the fan connector up and out of its socket on the logic board. Be sure your tweezers are clamped down on the fan connector, not the socket on the motherboard.
Remove the two 10 mm Phillips screws securing the fan to the fan shroud. Remove the fan from the Wii.
Use the tip of a spudger or another fine-pointed tool to carefully pry one of the black plastic retaining fingers attached to the fan shroud away from the Wi-Fi antenna board. Lift the Wi-Fi antenna out of the fan shroud.
Remove the single 10 mm Phillips screw securing the second Wi-Fi antenna to the top of the fan shroud.
Remove the two pieces of tape securing the second Wi-Fi antenna cable to the plastic bracket near the heat sink.
Carefully de-route both antennas from the frame of the Wii and lay them aside.
Remove the three 10 mm Phillips screws securing the fan shroud to the Wii. Lift the fan shroud off the heat sink and remove it from the Wii.
Remove the following six screws securing the EMI fingers to the bottom panel: Four 7 mm Phillips screws Two 11.3 mm Phillips screws Remove both sets of EMI fingers from the Wii.
Remove the following three screws: One 7 mm Phillips screw Two 10 mm Phillips screws Lift the bracket out of the Wii.
Remove the three 10 mm Phillips screws securing the black bracket to the bottom panel near the front of the Wii. Slightly lift the bracket and use your other hand to pull the retaining clip away from where the Wi-Fi antennas enter the motherboard sheild. Remove the bracket from the Wii. Be sure not to lose the small square nut loosely held by the black plastic bracket.
Remove the nine remaining 7 mm Phillips screws securing the motherboard cover to the bottom panel.
Carefully lift the motherboard cover off the motherboard, minding any cables that may get caught. On some models, a thermal pad for the wireless chip is attached to the underside of the motherboard cover. Be sure to replace it when reassembling.
Remove the four 11.3 mm Phillips screws securing the heat sink to the bottom panel.
Lift the heat sink off the motherboard. When working near the exposed processors, be sure not to disturb the thermal pads if you don't plan to replace them. They are fragile and can tear easily. If you do plan to replace the thermal pads, thermal paste can be used.

Nintendo Wii Motherboard Replacement

Use this guide to replace your Wii's...

Use a metal spudger to remove the white plastic screw covers stuck to the lower case near the front of the Wii.
Remove the two 8.3 mm Tri-Point screws hidden under the covers you just removed.
Remove the single 5.9 mm Phillips screw under the controller port door nearest the faceplate.
Use a metal spudger to remove the rubber foot stuck to the side of the Wii near the DVD drive opening.
Remove the single 5.9 mm Phillips screw hidden under the foot you just removed.
Carefully pull the faceplate away from the front of the Wii. Use a pair of to disconnect the LED cable's plastic from the motherboard. Remove the faceplate.
Open the controller port cover until it is perpendicular to the black controller port bezel. Pull the controller port cover straight up to release it from the outer case. Repeat this procedure for the memory card port cover.
Remove the two remaining 4.1 mm Phillips screws along the top edge of the black plastic controller port bezel. Lift the bezel from the long edge furthest away from the controller ports and remove it from the Wii.
Remove the two 5 mm Phillips screws above the controller ports.
Use a metal spudger to remove the three highlighted screw covers stuck to the side of the Wii.
Remove the following screws: Two 5 mm Phillips screws One 8.2 mm Tri-Point screw
Use a metal spudger to remove the two rubber feet stuck to the bottom face of the Wii near the rear ports.
Remove the two 8.2 mm Tri-Point screws hidden under the feet you just removed. You may use a mm hex nut driver|new_window=true to extend your bit into the recesses and reach the screws.
Lift the outer case straight up off the body of the Wii.
Remove the small Phillips screw securing the battery door to the bottom panel. This screw is captive to the battery door. Pull the battery door out of the Wii. The system time will be reset once you remove the battery door. This is a good time to change the CR2032 battery if it hasn't been changed recently.
Remove the 8.2 mm Tri-Point screw that was hidden beneath the battery door.
Remove the two 8.2 mm Tri-Point screws securing the DVD drive shield near the controller ports.
Be cautious as you remove the DVD shield, the edges are sharp and could cut you Lift the DVD drive shield upward and remove it from the Wii.
Remove the four 9 mm Phillips screws securing the DVD drive to the bottom panel.
Lift the side of the DVD drive opposite the controller ports enough to access the cables on its bottom face. Carefully pull the DVD drive power cable out from under the plastic shroud near the heat sink.
Pull the DVD drive power cable away from its socket on the DVD drive.
Use your fingernail to flip up the retaining flap on the DVD drive ribbon cable socket. Be sure you are prying up on the retaining flap, not the socket itself. Pull the DVD drive ribbon cable out of its socket. Remove the DVD drive from the Wii.
Use a pair of to lift the fan connector up and out of its socket on the logic board. Be sure your tweezers are clamped down on the fan connector, not the socket on the motherboard.
Remove the two 10 mm Phillips screws securing the fan to the fan shroud. Remove the fan from the Wii.
Use the tip of a spudger or another fine-pointed tool to carefully pry one of the black plastic retaining fingers attached to the fan shroud away from the Wi-Fi antenna board. Lift the Wi-Fi antenna out of the fan shroud.
Remove the single 10 mm Phillips screw securing the second Wi-Fi antenna to the top of the fan shroud.
Remove the two pieces of tape securing the second Wi-Fi antenna cable to the plastic bracket near the heat sink.
Carefully de-route both antennas from the frame of the Wii and lay them aside.
Remove the three 10 mm Phillips screws securing the fan shroud to the Wii. Lift the fan shroud off the heat sink and remove it from the Wii.
Remove the following six screws securing the EMI fingers to the bottom panel: Four 7 mm Phillips screws Two 11.3 mm Phillips screws Remove both sets of EMI fingers from the Wii.
Remove the following three screws: One 7 mm Phillips screw Two 10 mm Phillips screws Lift the bracket out of the Wii.
Remove the three 10 mm Phillips screws securing the black bracket to the bottom panel near the front of the Wii. Slightly lift the bracket and use your other hand to pull the retaining clip away from where the Wi-Fi antennas enter the motherboard sheild. Remove the bracket from the Wii. Be sure not to lose the small square nut loosely held by the black plastic bracket.
Remove the nine remaining 7 mm Phillips screws securing the motherboard cover to the bottom panel.
Carefully lift the motherboard cover off the motherboard, minding any cables that may get caught. On some models, a thermal pad for the wireless chip is attached to the underside of the motherboard cover. Be sure to replace it when reassembling.
Remove the four 11.3 mm Phillips screws securing the heat sink to the bottom panel.
Lift the heat sink off the motherboard. When working near the exposed processors, be sure not to disturb the thermal pads if you don't plan to replace them. They are fragile and can tear easily. If you do plan to replace the thermal pads, thermal paste can be used.
Lift the side of the Wi-Fi board furthest away from the heat sink and lift it out of its socket on the motherboard, being careful not to put too much sideways force on the connector. Remove the Wi-Fi board & antennas from the Wii.
Use the flat end of a spudger or your fingertips to lift up the end of the Bluetooth board nearest the center of the motherboard. Carefully peel the front edge of the Bluetooth board off the EMI foam attached to the motherboard. Remove the Bluetooth board.
Use your fingernail to flip up the DVD drive ribbon cable retaining flap. Be sure you are prying up on the retaining flap, not the socket itself. Pull the DVD drive ribbon cable out of its socket and remove it from the Wii.
Carefully pull the DVD drive power cable away from its socket on the motherboard and remove it from the Wii.
Carefully grab the motherboard by its edges and lift it off the bottom panel.

Nintendo Wii Motherboard Cover Replacement

Use a pair of to lift the fan connector up and out of its socket on the logic board. Be sure your tweezers are clamped down on the fan connector, not the socket on the motherboard.
Remove the two 10 mm Phillips screws securing the fan to the fan shroud. Remove the fan from the Wii.
Use the tip of a spudger or another fine-pointed tool to carefully pry one of the black plastic retaining fingers attached to the fan shroud away from the Wi-Fi antenna board. Lift the Wi-Fi antenna out of the fan shroud.
Remove the single 10 mm Phillips screw securing the second Wi-Fi antenna to the top of the fan shroud.
Remove the two pieces of tape securing the second Wi-Fi antenna cable to the plastic bracket near the heat sink.
Carefully de-route both antennas from the frame of the Wii and lay them aside.
Remove the three 10 mm Phillips screws securing the fan shroud to the Wii. Lift the fan shroud off the heat sink and remove it from the Wii.
Remove the following six screws securing the EMI fingers to the bottom panel: Four 7 mm Phillips screws Two 11.3 mm Phillips screws Remove both sets of EMI fingers from the Wii.
Remove the following three screws: One 7 mm Phillips screw Two 10 mm Phillips screws Lift the bracket out of the Wii.
Remove the three 10 mm Phillips screws securing the black bracket to the bottom panel near the front of the Wii. Slightly lift the bracket and use your other hand to pull the retaining clip away from where the Wi-Fi antennas enter the motherboard sheild. Remove the bracket from the Wii. Be sure not to lose the small square nut loosely held by the black plastic bracket.
Remove the nine remaining 7 mm Phillips screws securing the motherboard cover to the bottom panel.
Carefully lift the motherboard cover off the motherboard, minding any cables that may get caught. On some models, a thermal pad for the wireless chip is attached to the underside of the motherboard cover. Be sure to replace it when reassembling.

Nintendo Wii Outer Case Replacement

Use this guide to remove the white plastic...

Use a metal spudger to remove the white plastic screw covers stuck to the lower case near the front of the Wii.
Remove the two 8.3 mm Tri-Point screws hidden under the covers you just removed.
Remove the single 5.9 mm Phillips screw under the controller port door nearest the faceplate.
Use a metal spudger to remove the rubber foot stuck to the side of the Wii near the DVD drive opening.
Remove the single 5.9 mm Phillips screw hidden under the foot you just removed.
Carefully pull the faceplate away from the front of the Wii. Use a pair of to disconnect the LED cable's plastic from the motherboard. Remove the faceplate.
Open the controller port cover until it is perpendicular to the black controller port bezel. Pull the controller port cover straight up to release it from the outer case. Repeat this procedure for the memory card port cover.
Remove the two remaining 4.1 mm Phillips screws along the top edge of the black plastic controller port bezel. Lift the bezel from the long edge furthest away from the controller ports and remove it from the Wii.
Remove the two 5 mm Phillips screws above the controller ports.
Use a metal spudger to remove the three highlighted screw covers stuck to the side of the Wii.
Remove the following screws: Two 5 mm Phillips screws One 8.2 mm Tri-Point screw
Use a metal spudger to remove the two rubber feet stuck to the bottom face of the Wii near the rear ports.
Remove the two 8.2 mm Tri-Point screws hidden under the feet you just removed. You may use a mm hex nut driver|new_window=true to extend your bit into the recesses and reach the screws.
Lift the outer case straight up off the body of the Wii.

Nintendo Wii Wi-Fi Antennas Replacement

Use this guide to replace the two antennas...

Use a metal spudger to remove the white plastic screw covers stuck to the lower case near the front of the Wii.
Remove the two 8.3 mm Tri-Point screws hidden under the covers you just removed.
Remove the single 5.9 mm Phillips screw under the controller port door nearest the faceplate.
Use a metal spudger to remove the rubber foot stuck to the side of the Wii near the DVD drive opening.
Remove the single 5.9 mm Phillips screw hidden under the foot you just removed.
Carefully pull the faceplate away from the front of the Wii. Use a pair of to disconnect the LED cable's plastic from the motherboard. Remove the faceplate.
Open the controller port cover until it is perpendicular to the black controller port bezel. Pull the controller port cover straight up to release it from the outer case. Repeat this procedure for the memory card port cover.
Remove the two remaining 4.1 mm Phillips screws along the top edge of the black plastic controller port bezel. Lift the bezel from the long edge furthest away from the controller ports and remove it from the Wii.
Remove the two 5 mm Phillips screws above the controller ports.
Use a metal spudger to remove the three highlighted screw covers stuck to the side of the Wii.
Remove the following screws: Two 5 mm Phillips screws One 8.2 mm Tri-Point screw
Use a metal spudger to remove the two rubber feet stuck to the bottom face of the Wii near the rear ports.
Remove the two 8.2 mm Tri-Point screws hidden under the feet you just removed. You may use a mm hex nut driver|new_window=true to extend your bit into the recesses and reach the screws.
Lift the outer case straight up off the body of the Wii.
Remove the small Phillips screw securing the battery door to the bottom panel. This screw is captive to the battery door. Pull the battery door out of the Wii. The system time will be reset once you remove the battery door. This is a good time to change the CR2032 battery if it hasn't been changed recently.
Remove the 8.2 mm Tri-Point screw that was hidden beneath the battery door.
Remove the two 8.2 mm Tri-Point screws securing the DVD drive shield near the controller ports.
Be cautious as you remove the DVD shield, the edges are sharp and could cut you Lift the DVD drive shield upward and remove it from the Wii.
Remove the four 9 mm Phillips screws securing the DVD drive to the bottom panel.
Lift the side of the DVD drive opposite the controller ports enough to access the cables on its bottom face. Carefully pull the DVD drive power cable out from under the plastic shroud near the heat sink.
Pull the DVD drive power cable away from its socket on the DVD drive.
Use your fingernail to flip up the retaining flap on the DVD drive ribbon cable socket. Be sure you are prying up on the retaining flap, not the socket itself. Pull the DVD drive ribbon cable out of its socket. Remove the DVD drive from the Wii.
Use a pair of to lift the fan connector up and out of its socket on the logic board. Be sure your tweezers are clamped down on the fan connector, not the socket on the motherboard.
Remove the two 10 mm Phillips screws securing the fan to the fan shroud. Remove the fan from the Wii.
Use the tip of a spudger or another fine-pointed tool to carefully pry one of the black plastic retaining fingers attached to the fan shroud away from the Wi-Fi antenna board. Lift the Wi-Fi antenna out of the fan shroud.
Remove the single 10 mm Phillips screw securing the second Wi-Fi antenna to the top of the fan shroud.
Remove the two pieces of tape securing the second Wi-Fi antenna cable to the plastic bracket near the heat sink.
Carefully de-route both antennas from the frame of the Wii and lay them aside.
Remove the three 10 mm Phillips screws securing the fan shroud to the Wii. Lift the fan shroud off the heat sink and remove it from the Wii.
Remove the following six screws securing the EMI fingers to the bottom panel: Four 7 mm Phillips screws Two 11.3 mm Phillips screws Remove both sets of EMI fingers from the Wii.
Remove the following three screws: One 7 mm Phillips screw Two 10 mm Phillips screws Lift the bracket out of the Wii.
Remove the three 10 mm Phillips screws securing the black bracket to the bottom panel near the front of the Wii. Slightly lift the bracket and use your other hand to pull the retaining clip away from where the Wi-Fi antennas enter the motherboard sheild. Remove the bracket from the Wii. Be sure not to lose the small square nut loosely held by the black plastic bracket.
Remove the nine remaining 7 mm Phillips screws securing the motherboard cover to the bottom panel.
Carefully lift the motherboard cover off the motherboard, minding any cables that may get caught. On some models, a thermal pad for the wireless chip is attached to the underside of the motherboard cover. Be sure to replace it when reassembling.
Lift the side of the Wi-Fi board furthest away from the heat sink and lift it out of its socket on the motherboard, being careful not to put too much sideways force on the connector.
Use the flat end of a spudger to pry both antenna connectors off their sockets on the Wi-Fi board.

Nintendo Wii Wi-Fi Board Replacement

Having Wi-Fi connectivity issues? Use this...

Use a metal spudger to remove the white plastic screw covers stuck to the lower case near the front of the Wii.
Remove the two 8.3 mm Tri-Point screws hidden under the covers you just removed.
Remove the single 5.9 mm Phillips screw under the controller port door nearest the faceplate.
Use a metal spudger to remove the rubber foot stuck to the side of the Wii near the DVD drive opening.
Remove the single 5.9 mm Phillips screw hidden under the foot you just removed.
Carefully pull the faceplate away from the front of the Wii. Use a pair of to disconnect the LED cable's plastic from the motherboard. Remove the faceplate.
Open the controller port cover until it is perpendicular to the black controller port bezel. Pull the controller port cover straight up to release it from the outer case. Repeat this procedure for the memory card port cover.
Remove the two remaining 4.1 mm Phillips screws along the top edge of the black plastic controller port bezel. Lift the bezel from the long edge furthest away from the controller ports and remove it from the Wii.
Remove the two 5 mm Phillips screws above the controller ports.
Use a metal spudger to remove the three highlighted screw covers stuck to the side of the Wii.
Remove the following screws: Two 5 mm Phillips screws One 8.2 mm Tri-Point screw
Use a metal spudger to remove the two rubber feet stuck to the bottom face of the Wii near the rear ports.
Remove the two 8.2 mm Tri-Point screws hidden under the feet you just removed. You may use a mm hex nut driver|new_window=true to extend your bit into the recesses and reach the screws.
Lift the outer case straight up off the body of the Wii.
Remove the small Phillips screw securing the battery door to the bottom panel. This screw is captive to the battery door. Pull the battery door out of the Wii. The system time will be reset once you remove the battery door. This is a good time to change the CR2032 battery if it hasn't been changed recently.
Remove the 8.2 mm Tri-Point screw that was hidden beneath the battery door.
Remove the two 8.2 mm Tri-Point screws securing the DVD drive shield near the controller ports.
Be cautious as you remove the DVD shield, the edges are sharp and could cut you Lift the DVD drive shield upward and remove it from the Wii.
Remove the four 9 mm Phillips screws securing the DVD drive to the bottom panel.
Lift the side of the DVD drive opposite the controller ports enough to access the cables on its bottom face. Carefully pull the DVD drive power cable out from under the plastic shroud near the heat sink.
Pull the DVD drive power cable away from its socket on the DVD drive.
Use your fingernail to flip up the retaining flap on the DVD drive ribbon cable socket. Be sure you are prying up on the retaining flap, not the socket itself. Pull the DVD drive ribbon cable out of its socket. Remove the DVD drive from the Wii.
Use a pair of to lift the fan connector up and out of its socket on the logic board. Be sure your tweezers are clamped down on the fan connector, not the socket on the motherboard.
Remove the two 10 mm Phillips screws securing the fan to the fan shroud. Remove the fan from the Wii.
Use the tip of a spudger or another fine-pointed tool to carefully pry one of the black plastic retaining fingers attached to the fan shroud away from the Wi-Fi antenna board. Lift the Wi-Fi antenna out of the fan shroud.
Remove the single 10 mm Phillips screw securing the second Wi-Fi antenna to the top of the fan shroud.
Remove the two pieces of tape securing the second Wi-Fi antenna cable to the plastic bracket near the heat sink.
Carefully de-route both antennas from the frame of the Wii and lay them aside.
Remove the three 10 mm Phillips screws securing the fan shroud to the Wii. Lift the fan shroud off the heat sink and remove it from the Wii.
Remove the following six screws securing the EMI fingers to the bottom panel: Four 7 mm Phillips screws Two 11.3 mm Phillips screws Remove both sets of EMI fingers from the Wii.
Remove the following three screws: One 7 mm Phillips screw Two 10 mm Phillips screws Lift the bracket out of the Wii.
Remove the three 10 mm Phillips screws securing the black bracket to the bottom panel near the front of the Wii. Slightly lift the bracket and use your other hand to pull the retaining clip away from where the Wi-Fi antennas enter the motherboard sheild. Remove the bracket from the Wii. Be sure not to lose the small square nut loosely held by the black plastic bracket.
Remove the nine remaining 7 mm Phillips screws securing the motherboard cover to the bottom panel.
Carefully lift the motherboard cover off the motherboard, minding any cables that may get caught. On some models, a thermal pad for the wireless chip is attached to the underside of the motherboard cover. Be sure to replace it when reassembling.
Lift the side of the Wi-Fi board furthest away from the heat sink and lift it out of its socket on the motherboard, being careful not to put too much sideways force on the connector.
Use the flat end of a spudger to pry both antenna connectors off their sockets on the Wi-Fi board.
Wi-Fi board remains.

Source et licence

Guides iFixit, publiés sous Creative Commons BY-NC-SA — réutilisation autorisée avec attribution, usage non commercial et partage à l'identique. C'est, de toute la documentation rassemblée ici, la seule sous licence explicite ; les manuels constructeur n'en ont aucune. Les photos d'étapes restent sur iFixit — seul le texte est repris.

Mods populaires — quoi, comment (0 soudure)¶

La Wii se modde en LOGICIEL

Tout passe par du softmod — aucune soudure. Guide de référence communautaire : wii.hacks.guide.

Softmod — Homebrew Channel + USB Loader¶

Exploit d'entrée (selon la version du menu système) : str2hax (par DNS, sans jeu ni SD spéciale), LetterBomb (exploit par message, demande l'adresse MAC de la console), ou BlueBomb (par Bluetooth, pour versions verrouillées / Wii mini). → installe le Homebrew Channel (HBC).
Protection anti-brique — à faire AVANT tout : BootMii (idéalement en boot2 sur les Wii anciennes) + Priiloader → permet de récupérer une console briquée.
Lancer les jeux : USB Loader GX / WiiFlow depuis USB/SD (via d2x cIOS), region-free ; les jeux GameCube aussi (Nintendont). → fiche Softmods.

Vidéo¶

Component (YPbPr) 480p : universel, la meilleure sortie analogique d'origine.
RGB péritel : uniquement sur les Wii PAL (les NTSC ne sortent pas de RGB au multi-out).
HDMI : adaptateur Wii2HDMI (composite→HDMI, basique) ou un mod numérique interne (image nette).

En ligne / divers¶

RiiConnect24 / Wiimmfi : ressuscitent les canaux et le jeu en ligne (serveurs communautaires).

Photos / assets¶

(À ajouter : carte RVL-CPU, sorties AV, lecteur.)

Réparation avancée

Lecteur DVD (laser) + recap ; Bluetooth (manettes) et alim = points faibles. Méthodes : ODE (lecteur optique) · Recap · Diagnostic PCB.

Sources & attribution¶

Wikipédia — Wii — CC-BY-SA — https://fr.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wii
ConsoleMods — Wii (softmod, HDMI) — à référencer — https://consolemods.org/wiki/Wii

Image :

wii-console.png — Evan-Amos, domaine public — https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Wii-Console.png

Relecture & corrections

À quoi sert cet espace

Une valeur fausse, une procédure dépassée, une référence de puce qui ne colle pas à ta carte ? Signale-le ici, avec ce que tu as constaté (modèle, révision de carte, numéro de série, mesure). Chaque signalement est recoupé avec une source avant toute modification — une correction invérifiable est publiée en tant que « signalé par …, non recoupé » plutôt qu'appliquée en silence.

La lecture est ouverte à tous ; écrire demande une connexion Discord. Les signalements des relecteurs déclarés du wiki sont traités en priorité ; les autres sont lus aussi, mais passent par un humain avant toute modification.