"Western" cabinets (upright, cabaret, cocktail)¶
An overview of Western (US/EU) arcade cabinets — as opposed to Japanese candy cabs. These include the tall upright, its scaled-down cabaret / mini version, and the cocktail / table cabinet. Wooden cabinets (MDF/particleboard), usually a smaller, fixed monitor, and JAMMA wiring from the mid-1980s on.
The Western form factors¶
| Format | Description | Screen | Note |
|---|---|---|---|
| Upright | tall vertical cabinet (~1.8 m / 6 ft), control panel at waist height, lit marquee on top | CRT ~19–25″, often fixed | the dominant format in North America |
| Cabaret / mini | scaled-down upright, less bulky, aimed at small spaces / the home | smaller CRT | compacted "upright" style |
| Cocktail / table | low table cabinet, screen flat under glass, 2 players seated across | horizontal CRT, image flips (game-controlled) each turn | common in 1980s bars |
(Per Wikipedia — Arcade cabinet.)
Construction & materials¶
- Wood: MDF or laminated particleboard panels, unlike the moulded plastic of candy cabs. Heavier to move, but simpler to repair/rebuild.
- Artwork: side screen-printing, backlit marquee, bezel around the tube. Dedicated cabinets (Pac-Man, Mortal Kombat…) carry game-specific artwork.
- Monitor: usually smaller (~19–25″) than a candy cab's 29″, and most often non-rotatable (orientation fixed at build time).
Wiring & power¶
- JAMMA (56-pin edge) has been the standard for generic uprights since ~1985 → JAMMA wiring. Pre-JAMMA cabinets use dedicated harnesses.
- Power: cabinet PSU (often 110/230 V by region) — see the power principle; the +5 V rail is critical for logic.
- Controls: fixed panel (dedicated) or rewired (generic JAMMA cabinet) — see Control panels.
Western vs candy cab (JP)¶
| Western upright | Candy cab (JP) | |
|---|---|---|
| Material | wood (MDF/particleboard) | moulded plastic |
| Monitor | ~19–25″, often fixed | 29″, often rotatable |
| Artwork | dedicated screen-print + marquee | neutral shell, interchangeable panel |
| Ergonomics | standing | seated |
(See also the overview: cabinet types.)
Repair (cross-cutting)¶
- CRT monitor: recap + adjustments — see Nanao MS8 / MS9; ⚠️ high voltage.
- Wooden cabinet: re-glue/reinforce panels, replace T-molding, redo artwork.
- JAMMA contacts, harness, buttons/joysticks.
Playing a PCB at home¶
As with candy cabs, you can wire a JAMMA board without a cabinet via a supergun.
Photos / assets¶
(To add: dedicated US upright, cabaret, glass-top cocktail.)
Repair & maintenance
Modernise (video, PSU, JVS, upscaler, PC/FPGA) → Modernising a cabinet. CRT monitor (discharge HV!) → CRT safety · Wells-Gardner / Sanyo 20-EZ (US) / Hantarex (EU) chassis · recap → Recap · diagnosis → PCB fault-finding.
Sources & attribution¶
- Wikipedia — Arcade cabinet (upright ~6 ft, cocktail flipped image, cabaret/mini scaled down, plastic 29″ candy cabs vs 20–25″ wooden uprights) — https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Arcade_cabinet
- Arcade Otaku Wiki — Cabinets (cabinet families) — https://wiki.arcadeotaku.com/w/Cabinets
- Internal pages: cabinet types · JAMMA wiring · supergun
Review & corrections
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