Oric-1 & Oric Atmos¶
The British 6502 that was a hit in France (Oric-1 in 1983, Atmos in 1984): an AY-3-8912 (3 voices), a decent keyboard on the Atmos, a nice game library. Standard 8-bit repair: recap, ULA, keyboard.
Oric Atmos — photo by Mathieu Charreyre, CC BY-SA 4.0 (Wikimedia Commons).
Identification¶
| Model | Year | Note |
|---|---|---|
| Oric-1 | 1983 | "calculator" keyboard, 16/48 KB |
| Oric Atmos | 1984 | real keyboard, fixed ROM (Oric-1 compatible) |
| Telestrat | 1986 | rare evolution (telematics-oriented) |
CPU: 6502 @ 1 MHz; Sound: GI AY-3-8912; RF/SCART (RGB) output; cassette (and optional Microdisc drive).
Repair (technician)¶
- Recap (external PSU + board) → Recap.
- ULA: the custom chip is the weak point (as on the Spectrum) → cool/substitute if available.
- Keyboard: contacts / membrane → clean.
- Cassette: level adjustment / drive → loading was already finicky back then.
- Video: SCART RGB output (common in FR) → check cable/RGB.
Procedure — a dead computer, step by step ✅¶
What this adds
Ordered for a home computer: what kills these is its power supply, its battery, its capacitors, its socketed RAM and its keyboard — roughly in that order, and well before the CPU. → PCB diagnosis
1. The power supply — measured before it is plugged in. This is the one step not to swap around. On a machine of this age a supply does not simply stop: a 5 V regulator that fails high puts 7, 9, 12 V onto the bus and takes the RAM and the custom chips with it. Measure every rail off the machine, under a dummy load if you can, and only then plug it in.
2. The battery, if it has one. Any RTC or backup cell soldered to a board is a future leak. If yours has one and it has never been changed, take it out before it takes the tracks with it. → Backup batteries
3. Capacitors. Recap is the default on these machines, not a last resort — and on the supply first, since that is what protects everything else. → Recap
4. RAM, on its sockets. These machines were built to be repaired: the RAM, and often the logic, sit in sockets. Reseat everything first — thirty years of oxide is a classic no-boot. Then swap chips: a bad RAM chip usually gives a repeatable pattern of garbage or a screen frozen at a fixed character.
5. The keyboard. A console does not have one; a computer's is a wear part. A membrane keyboard fails as whole dead rows or columns — that is the membrane, not the machine. A mechanical one wants its contacts cleaning, not replacing. Check this page: the failure mode is often documented per model.
6. Storage — tape or disk. Both often come down to the same things: a dirty head, and for tape the azimuth and a belt turned to tar. ⚠️ On the floppy side, check whether the mechanism actually has a belt before looking for one: many do, but some drives are direct drive, and hunting a belt that isn't there means stripping a drive for nothing. A machine that boots but loads nothing is a drive fault, not a logic fault — do not go looking on the board for it.
7. Video output. RF, composite, RGB or a dedicated monitor, depending on the machine (see Identification). Test with something else before you conclude: a period modulator and a modern TV disagree far more often than either is broken.
8. Still nothing. Now the logic: rails on the board, reset, clock, bus. → PCB diagnosis
Common faults¶
| Symptom | Likely cause | Lead |
|---|---|---|
| No / unstable picture | ULA / video | Cool, substitute |
| Cassette load fails | level / drive | Adjust, clean |
| Dead keys | keyboard | Clean |
| Instability | caps | Recap |
Modernisation & mods — what to buy, how¶
ULA = fragile part
The ULA is the weak point (runs hot) → cool it (heatsink) or substitute a community reissue. Recap + check the external PSU.
Modern storage
- Cumulus 🟢: an SD emulator that replaces the Microdisc drive → mount .dsk images from an SD
card, no more 3″ floppies.
- Load cassette via audio 🟢 from a PC/phone (.tap → WAV) if keeping the deck; SD cards on the expansion
bus per community builds 🟡.
Video - SCART RGB output 🟢 (common in FR) → sharp as-is; downstream OSSC / RetroTINK or RGB2HDMI (Raspberry Pi) for HDMI.
⚠️ Do not host ROMs/games — method only.
Archived technical documentation ✅¶
Manufacturer documentation archived locally: schematics, block diagrams, expected voltages, parts lists. The reference when a symptom matches no known fault.
- Oric — board layout — PDF
Status
Manufacturer documents kept for preservation (machines out of production for decades), with no explicit licence — the same position as for the cabinet manuals already archived here.
Oric-1 connectors ✅¶
Connector pinouts.
Provenance
Undocumented origin in the collection these schematics came from: no author and no licence is stated there.
See also¶
- ZX Spectrum (same ULA issue) · Amstrad CPC · Recap.
Sources & attribution¶
- Photo Oric Atmos — Mathieu Charreyre, CC BY-SA 4.0, Wikimedia Commons — https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:ORIC_ATMOS_48k_-_PERSPECTIVE_HD.png
- Wikipedia — Oric (6502, AY-3-8912, Oric-1/Atmos) — CC-BY-SA — https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Oric
- Established Oric community knowledge (ULA, cassette) — synthesis.
Review & corrections
How this space is used
Spotted a wrong value, an outdated procedure, a chip reference that does not match your board? Say so here, with what you observed (model, board revision, serial number, measurement). Every report is cross-checked against a source before anything changes — an unverifiable correction is published as “reported by …, not cross-checked” rather than silently applied.
Reading is open to everyone; posting requires signing in with Discord. Reports from the wiki's declared reviewers are handled first; anyone else's are read too, but go through a human before anything is changed.
