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Sega Net City

A Sega candy cab (2000) designed for networked play: built-in LAN wiring, for the online titles of the Naomi era. A modern evolution of the City series, 31 kHz / JVS.

The Net City, catalogue view.
The Net City, catalogue view. Source: Hard*Candy — ⚠️ the site publishes no licence statement.

Identification

Field Value
Manufacturer Sega
Year 2000
Type Network candy cab
Screen CRT 29", tri-sync
Network built-in LAN (Naomi online games)
PCB format JAMMA + JVS

⚡ Connector & power

Aspect Value
PCB connector JAMMA + JVS (the most modern City, 2000)
Network built-in LAN (Naomi online / ALL.Net)
Monitor sync tri-sync 15/24/31 kHz
Power 100 V AC (Japan)
Consumption ~ CRT candy cab draw (see the service manual)

(Sources: Arcade Otaku; New Net City = standard JVS panel & PSU.)

Specifics

  • Network wiring (LAN) from the factory for online play.
  • Aimed at Naomi / JVS (31 kHz).

Technical notes

  • Monitor sync: tri-sync (15/24/31 kHz) — aimed at Naomi / 31 kHz.
  • I/O: JVS (modern arcade standard) on top of JAMMA, + factory LAN wiring for online play (ALL.Net / networked Naomi titles).
  • Power: a Sega "candy" block → Sega candy cab PSU.
  • Monitor chassis: adjustments/recap like the Nanao MS9.
  • Position in the line: the most modern City (2000), designed for the JVS/network era — close to the Blast City in terms of 31 kHz versatility.

Shared info

Basic wiring, disassembly: see Astro City.

Internal boards

  • 🖥️ Monitor tri-sync → Nanao MS9.
  • 🔗 JVS I/O + LAN.
  • ⚡ Sega power block.

Manuals

Net City manual

A dedicated Net City service manual is not publicly available (collectors note it was rarely scanned, and it is often identical to the Naomi / New Net City documentation). The closest documents archived here: the New Net City (VS setup guide + pinout) and the NAOMI Universal manuals.

Procedure — a cabinet that will not start ✅

There is a CRT in this cabinet

The tube stays charged with the cabinet unplugged, and the anode cap is the first thing your hand meets behind the monitor. Discharge it, work with one hand, and never alone if you can help it. → CRT safety

This cabinet is documented as 100 V

It does not go straight onto a European socket. It needs a step-down transformer rated for the whole cabinet, monitor included — not a travel adapter. Feeding 230 V to a cabinet built for 100 V destroys the supply, and usually the monitor with it. → Cabinet power

What this adds

Ordered for a cabinet, not for a board: mains, low-voltage supply, loom, monitor, then the game. The overwhelming majority of "dead cabinets" are dead for a reason that has nothing to do with the PCB — which is why the board comes last here.

1. Mains, and what sits between it and the cabinet. The switch, the fuse or breaker, the isolation transformer if there is one. A cabinet that shows no sign of life at all is almost never electronic.

2. The low-voltage supply — measured under load. Aim for +5 V where power reaches the board — the JAMMA edge, or the JVS power connector, depending on the cabinet — with the game running, not on an idle bench. If the supply has an adjustment (most candy and JVS bricks do; the ATX brick in a PC cabinet does not), do it then and not before: set off-load, it leaves a board that boots and then glitches. With no adjustment the measurement still earns its keep — it tells you whether the supply holds. Check +12 V too, and −5 V if the board uses it: many do not, and an ATX brick does not provide it. → Cabinet power

3. The loom and the connector. Reseat, and check the grounds — a cabinet with a poor ground gives rolling picture, phantom inputs and noise, all at once, and none of it looks like a wiring fault. Connector on this cabinet: JAMMA + JVS. → Wiring

4. The monitor. This page describes the monitor as: CRT 29", tri-sync. CRT: no picture but the tube is warm and there is EHT — that is sync or video, not the tube. No EHT at all — chassis. A picture that shrinks, wanders or shifts colour is a chassis recap, and on these monitors that is a scheduled job, not a repair.

5. Scan rate — the mismatch that breaks nothing. If the board's rate is not one the monitor accepts, you get no picture and nothing is faulty. Check what this cabinet takes against what the board puts out before opening anything. → Modernising a cabinet

6. The control panel. Microswitches and the loom, in that order. A single dead direction is a switch; a whole player dead is the loom or its ground. → Control panels

7. Coin mech and sound. Last, because they hide nothing: a mech that no longer registers is usually dirty or misadjusted, and silence with a good picture points at the amplifier and its supply rails.

Photos / assets

(To add: Net City, JVS/LAN I/O, monitor.)

Repair & maintenance

Modernise (video, PSU, JVS, upscaler, PC/FPGA) → Modernising a cabinet. CRT monitor (discharge HV!) → CRT safety + Nanao MS8 / MS9 chassis · Sega candy PSU → PSU repair · recap → Recap.

Sources & attribution

Image:

Review & corrections

How this space is used

Spotted a wrong value, an outdated procedure, a chip reference that does not match your board? Say so here, with what you observed (model, board revision, serial number, measurement). Every report is cross-checked against a source before anything changes — an unverifiable correction is published as “reported by …, not cross-checked” rather than silently applied.

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