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Sega New Astro City

An evolution of the Sega Astro City (1995): same candy cab chassis, but a Nanao MS9 monitor and improved speakers. Mechanically and electrically very close to the Astro City — much info is shared (see the cross-references below).

Sega New Astro City cabinet
Sega New Astro City (candy cab, MS9 monitor). Photo: Andrew Eaton, Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 2.0.

Identification

Field Value
Manufacturer Sega
Year 1995
Type Candy cab
Screen CRT 29", Nanao MS9, 15/24 kHz, rotatable
Controls 2 players, interchangeable panel
Power 100 V (Japan) or 230 V (Europe) — ⚠️ read the label
PCB format JAMMA
Dimensions 750 × 905 × 1445 mm
Weight 93 kg

⚡ Connector & power

Aspect Value
PCB connector JAMMA (56-pin edge) — no JVS
Monitor sync 15/24 kHz (Nanao MS9)
Power 100 V AC (Japan) or 230 V AC 50 Hz (Europe)
Consumption 200 W (1995 JP flyer) · 142 W on the 230 V unit of the manual — see below
Dimensions 750 × 905 × 1445 mm (W×D×H)
Weight 93 kg

This cabinet exists in both 100 V AND 230 V — read the machine's label

The manual archived here is the European edition, published by Sega Amusements Europe Limited (New Malden, Surrey). Its SPECIFICATIONS box, page 3 of the PDF, reads: Installation space 750 mm (W) × 905 mm (D), Height 1,445 mm, Total Weight 93 kg, Power 142W (AC 230V 50 Hz)**.

This page long claimed the cabinet was "documented as 100 V" and warned that feeding it 230 V destroys the PSU — which is false for the very unit its own archived manual describes. Both exist: imported from Japan at 100 V, sold in Europe at 230 V.

⚠️ The only authority is the label on your machine, next to the inlet. Neither this page nor the manual can tell you which one you have.

Three Sega documents, three consumption figures

The High Performance Cabinets Guide of 1995 (© SEGA 1995.11, SD-3834), bilingual, gives for the New Astro City: W: 750mm · D: 905mm · H: 1,445mm, 重量 93kg, 消費電力 AC100V 200W, 画面 29インチモニター — i.e. Power AC 100V 200W** in its English column.

So we have 200 W (1995 Japanese flyer), 142 W (European service manual, at 230 V) and the "~140 W" that used to sit on this page. The first two are Sega documents describing different markets. Neither is discarded: to size an installation, take 200 W.

The dimensions, by contrast, agree perfectly across all three — and the flyer labels them W / D / H in English.

Figures labelled by the manufacturer

The same box spells out (W) and (D): 750 wide by 905 deep. One more corroboration of the convention established on the other cabinets, and the opposite of what Arcade Otaku publishes.

(Sources: archived service manual for the dimensions, weight, voltage and consumption. Arcade Otaku for the rest — ⚠️ their infobox lists depth first without declaring it.)

Differences from the Astro City

  • Nanao MS9 monitor (instead of the MS8) — see repair: Nanao MS9.
  • Improved speakers.
  • Cosmetic / harness details very close.

Info shared with the Astro City

These topics are identical (the original Strip Down Guide actually targets the New Astro City) — see the Astro City page:

Internal boards

Common mods

  • Native RGB (JAMMA), supergun-friendly.
  • 31 kHz / tri-sync: the MS9 is 15/24 kHz; for 31 kHz, a tri-sync monitor/chassis swap.
  • LCD screen (conversions exist).
  • → Modernising a cabinet (video/PSU/JVS/PC-in-cab).

Manuals & schematics (archived)

  • 📘 Service manual (EN) — PDF

Procedure — a cabinet that will not start ✅

There is a CRT in this cabinet

The tube stays charged with the cabinet unplugged, and the anode cap is the first thing your hand meets behind the monitor. Discharge it, work with one hand, and never alone if you can help it. → CRT safety

What this adds

Ordered for a cabinet, not for a board: mains, low-voltage supply, loom, monitor, then the game. The overwhelming majority of "dead cabinets" are dead for a reason that has nothing to do with the PCB — which is why the board comes last here.

1. Mains, and what sits between it and the cabinet. The switch, the fuse or breaker, the isolation transformer if there is one. A cabinet that shows no sign of life at all is almost never electronic.

2. The low-voltage supply — measured under load. Aim for +5 V where power reaches the board — the JAMMA edge, or the JVS power connector, depending on the cabinet — with the game running, not on an idle bench. If the supply has an adjustment (most candy and JVS bricks do; the ATX brick in a PC cabinet does not), do it then and not before: set off-load, it leaves a board that boots and then glitches. With no adjustment the measurement still earns its keep — it tells you whether the supply holds. Check +12 V too, and −5 V if the board uses it: many do not, and an ATX brick does not provide it. → Cabinet power

3. The loom and the connector. Reseat, and check the grounds — a cabinet with a poor ground gives rolling picture, phantom inputs and noise, all at once, and none of it looks like a wiring fault. Connector on this cabinet: JAMMA. → Wiring

4. The monitor. This page describes the monitor as: CRT 29", Nanao MS9, 15/24 kHz, rotatable. CRT: no picture but the tube is warm and there is EHT — that is sync or video, not the tube. No EHT at all — chassis. A picture that shrinks, wanders or shifts colour is a chassis recap, and on these monitors that is a scheduled job, not a repair.

5. Scan rate — the mismatch that breaks nothing. If the board's rate is not one the monitor accepts, you get no picture and nothing is faulty. Check what this cabinet takes against what the board puts out before opening anything. → Modernising a cabinet

6. The control panel. Microswitches and the loom, in that order. A single dead direction is a switch; a whole player dead is the loom or its ground. → Control panels

7. Coin mech and sound. Last, because they hide nothing: a mech that no longer registers is usually dirty or misadjusted, and silence with a good picture points at the amplifier and its supply rails.

Photos / assets

(To add: cabinet, MS9 monitor, speakers, control panel.)

Repair & maintenance

CRT monitor (discharge HV!) → CRT safety + Nanao MS8 / MS9 chassis · Sega candy PSU → PSU repair · recap → Recap.

Sources & attribution

Text (content synthesised/shared here; sources for attribution):

Image:

Review & corrections

How this space is used

Spotted a wrong value, an outdated procedure, a chip reference that does not match your board? Say so here, with what you observed (model, board revision, serial number, measurement). Every report is cross-checked against a source before anything changes — an unverifiable correction is published as “reported by …, not cross-checked” rather than silently applied.

Reading is open to everyone; posting requires signing in with Discord. Reports from the wiki's declared reviewers are handled first; anyone else's are read too, but go through a human before anything is changed.