Sega Marine Fishing (upright, NAOMI cabinet version)¶
Sega fishing game on NAOMI, shipped as an upright with a dedicated control: a fishing-rod grip with a reel. The archived manual is from Sega Manufacturing Division (UK), for the "Naomi cabinet" version.
What this manual covers, and what it sends elsewhere
The service manual (420-6574-01UK, REV 0, 38 pages) covers only what is specific to the game: the control, the test mode, and rod maintenance and troubleshooting. ⚠️ For everything else it refers to the "Naomi Cabinet manual, 420-6455-01UK", which this wiki does not have as such. ⓘ The same reference appears in the kit of a NAOMI Universal, labelled "SERVICE MANUAL NAOMI UPRIGHT". This wiki still does not state which NAOMI cabinet this one is. For the board, it refers to the NAOMI Service Manual.
ⓘ The scan's text layer is unusable (OCR mixed with Cyrillic): everything below was re-read from the image.
Identification¶
| Field | Value |
|---|---|
| Maker | Sega — manual printed by Sega Manufacturing Division (UK) |
| System | NAOMI — "ASSY MAIN BD MFS NAOMI" (MFS-0100UK) |
| Cabinet | "ASSY CABINET MFS NAOMI" (MFS-10001UK) |
| Control | rod and reel, driven by a DRIVER UNIT (HOT-4500-UL) |
| Installation kit | "INST KIT MFS NAOMI (NANAO)" (MFS-INST) — ⓘ label reproduced without interpretation |
The control: a rod without a rod ✅¶
✅ The rod shown on screen does not exist
The manual says so on its drawing of the control: the rod "Although not actually attached, this appears in the game mode". The player holds a grip with a reel, and the rod is only drawn on screen.
| Part | Role, per the manual |
|---|---|
| Grip | tilts on two axes, read by two potentiometers: ROD X and ROD Y |
| Reel handle | turned by the player, read by an encoder (REEL SPEED) |
| Mini stick | STICK X and STICK Y |
| Red button | START / CAST |
| Yellow button | LURE CHANGE |
✅ A reel with force feedback
The test mode's output test offers three items: MOTOR, CLUTCH and REEL BRAKE. ⓘ The reel is not only read: it resists. The troubleshooting table confirms it — "Reel handle receives no load" → "Failure of the Brake".
Test mode: the values read¶
The input test shows each potentiometer in hexadecimal. Example as printed in the manual — ⚠️ illustration values, not tolerances:
STICK X = 7DH
STICK Y = 7DH
REEL SPEED = 7FH
ROD X = 7BH
ROD Y = 4EH
CAST = OFF
LURE = OFF
ⓘ The accompanying drawing shows the reel giving 00H → 80H in one direction of rotation and 80H → FFH in the other.
Maintenance ✅¶
⚠️ Monthly greasing — a third interval at Sega
| Item | Check | Interval |
|---|---|---|
| Game board | memory test, settings check | monthly |
| Rod | switch and potentiometer inspection | monthly |
| Rod | greasing of gear mesh and sliding parts | ⚠️ monthly |
| Everything else | — | "Refer to Naomi Cabinet manual" |
"Open the Control Panel and grease the mechanisms shown on a monthly basis using a proprietary synthetic lubricant."
⚠️ Sega gives no single interval: one month here, three months on Sega Rally and F355, six months on Out Runners → Deluxe cabinets. ⓘ The manual does not name the lubricant; it only says "synthetic" and refers to the cabinet manual.
⚠️ A rod that does not return to centre: the springs
"If the Rod fails to return to the centre position when released, the cause is likely to be failure or stretching of the EXTENSION and TORSION SPRINGS."
ⓘ The extension spring is part HOT-3107X. Tools called for: 5 mm spanner, narrow flat screwdriver and Phillips for M3/M4 screws.
ⓘ Replacing a potentiometer: red is X, blue is Y
If ROD X or ROD Y does not follow the movement in test mode, the manual blames gear mesh or the potentiometer. At the connector: "The red connector is the X volume, the blue one is the Y volume".
Troubleshooting¶
| Symptom | Cause given by the manual | Remedy |
|---|---|---|
| Rod does not work | poor connection; motor or clutch; Driver Unit | reconnect I/O ↔ Driver Unit; replace motor/clutch; Driver Unit: dealer |
| Abnormal response | tension volume badly fitted, badly set or failed | refit; reset (test mode); replace |
| Stick abnormal | I/O ↔ control board connection; setting; Stick Control board | reconnect; reset; replace |
| Reel handle abnormal | connection; encoder | reconnect; replace |
| Reel handle has no load | connection; brake | reconnect; replace |
| Machine freezes | voltage dip or interrupt | ⚠️ turn off, wait at least 30 seconds, turn on |
Procedure — a cabinet that will not start ✅¶
What this adds
Ordered for a cabinet, not for a board: mains, low-voltage supply, loom, monitor, then the game. The overwhelming majority of "dead cabinets" are dead for a reason that has nothing to do with the PCB — which is why the board comes last here.
1. Mains, and what sits between it and the cabinet. The switch, the fuse or breaker, the isolation transformer if there is one. A cabinet that shows no sign of life at all is almost never electronic.
2. The low-voltage supply — measured under load. Aim for +5 V where power reaches the board — the JAMMA edge, or the JVS power connector, depending on the cabinet — with the game running, not on an idle bench. If the supply has an adjustment (most candy and JVS bricks do; the ATX brick in a PC cabinet does not), do it then and not before: set off-load, it leaves a board that boots and then glitches. With no adjustment the measurement still earns its keep — it tells you whether the supply holds. Check +12 V too, and −5 V if the board uses it: many do not, and an ATX brick does not provide it. → Cabinet power
3. The loom and the connector. Reseat, and check the grounds — a cabinet with a poor ground gives rolling picture, phantom inputs and noise, all at once, and none of it looks like a wiring fault. → Wiring
4. The monitor. This page does not give a single monitor spec — it covers several cabinets. Check which one you have before concluding anything.
5. Scan rate — the mismatch that breaks nothing. If the board's rate is not one the monitor accepts, you get no picture and nothing is faulty. Check what this cabinet takes against what the board puts out before opening anything. → Modernising a cabinet
6. The control panel. Microswitches and the loom, in that order. A single dead direction is a switch; a whole player dead is the loom or its ground. → Control panels
7. Coin mech and sound. Last, because they hide nothing: a mech that no longer registers is usually dirty or misadjusted, and silence with a good picture points at the amplifier and its supply rails.
Sources & attribution¶
- Sega Manufacturing Division (UK) — Sega Marine Fishing Upright, Service Manual, 420-6574-01UK REV 0, 38 pp., "Naomi cabinet" version — archived PDF — control (4.1), test mode (5.2), control panel (6), maintenance (7), troubleshooting (8), parts list (10)
- Internal pages: Sega NAOMI · Deluxe cabinets · JVS I/O boards
Review & corrections
How this space is used
Spotted a wrong value, an outdated procedure, a chip reference that does not match your board? Say so here, with what you observed (model, board revision, serial number, measurement). Every report is cross-checked against a source before anything changes — an unverifiable correction is published as “reported by …, not cross-checked” rather than silently applied.
Reading is open to everyone; posting requires signing in with Discord. Reports from the wiki's declared reviewers are handled first; anyone else's are read too, but go through a human before anything is changed.